Hey Everyone,
This past week I printed my first 3d printer object on my CR-10S. It was the notorious little cat, but I used Simplify 3D software and not CURA. It went well until to the very last 2 mins to go, and then the cat came unstuck. However, the printing is still a success because I used the cheap tape that was included in the box on the glass plate, so I blame that.
My plan is to buy some new glass plates and then try the sanding/scufffing them up trick that others are doing well with...
In the mean time, I think it's time we start a 3d printing section for cockpit builders and cockpit parts, and I ask for Trevor (yep, you buddy) to start talking...lol! Tell us what your experiences are for the cockpit parts, plus hints or insights. Also, Bob I know you're sitting on a 3d printer too, so start talking buddy; lets here your thoughts as well.
Heck, maybe make some videos or a live video on twitch (or YouTube), just about cockpit parts. Bob I know you like doing live feeds, so setup and do a few, you can time-lapse the actual print time(s)...
John
I do have a number of good time lap videos for some of my prints. I will give that some thought since I do have a Twitch channel already. I have printed a bunch of stuff.. The printer is running right now. A 3D printer is simply a must for a cockpit builder. I do not see how I ever survived with out it. Things you would never think of, like, I needed some stand offs to put my interface cards in the sim.. So instead of looking all around and then order them, I went into TinkerCad and drew then and then to the printer they went. Need a bracket, print it... It has saved me a lot of time, head aches and money!
John,
I found that hairspray on the glass does a good job of ensuring the print sticks.
Also, I also found that running three or four loops around the perimeter gets the nozzle flowing evenly before it starts the print.
I have a sheet of PEI on top of my borosilicate glass, gone is the need for Glue, Hairspray, tape or anything else. As the plastic heats it gets stickier, when the part cools, the PEI will release. Depending on how much you push the plastic into the bed though, sometimes it can be a real tough job getting the part off.
In my opinion, PEI is the only way to go.
Trev
I'll look into it Trevor. Thanks!
Quote from: fsaviator on February 12, 2018, 03:54:00 AM
I'll look into it Trevor. Thanks!
Just have to bring your bed temperature up about 3-5 degrees higher to make sure the PEI is at temp before you start printing. With Buildtac I would run 60 degrees bed with Pla with the PEI and glass I run at 63 degrees C.
Trev
Trev's right,PEI sheet is the way to go. I've got a Prusa I3 Mk2 and it uses a PEI sheet.
It can be a bitch to get things off but never had a stickabilty problem yet.
Hey Trev,
Will you please post some links as to where you purchased the PEI and borosilicate glass?
Thank You,
John
I've had good experiences with Printbite even when printing ABS
https://flex3drive.com/printbite/
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Quote from: blueskydriver on February 12, 2018, 03:45:15 PM
Hey Trev,
Will you please post some links as to where you purchased the PEI and borosilicate glass?
Thank You,
John
Here is the Glass, (Fits Perfect)
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B075JKCMRV/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B075JKCMRV/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Its a tempered Glass, not "PyREX" (Borosilicate) But the product is exactly what I wanted. It almost is like a fibreglass Plate.
Here is My PEI Sheet, which is a touch small, Should have got it a bit bigger. When it gets all scratched up and gouged, I will get a bigger one.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07765TZ8K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07765TZ8K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Thank you very much Trevor...you're assume!
John