ATX PSU

[jackpilot]

Well, need help
My PSU  was  working fine with its spaghetti wiring and connectors, feeding 5 and 12V.
To install it properly I cut off all connectors, tied up the reds with reds etc...
Since then, when I start it, (green  and ground wires) the fan runs for 2 secs and stops.
All positive wires climb to value for one sec and die
The power good wire (grey)shows zero (not OK)
The 5vsb (purple) shows 5V continuous when the 110V is applied to the PSU (which is OK)

The fact that it worked fine (with load or no load) before I cut the connectors makes me think that maybe some connection was lost maybe with the blue and white wires (neg voltage )

I search the net, all pinouts I checked do not mention such a connection...so I give up unless one of you guys has the magic answer!!

[Jetcos]

Do you have the Green wire connected to a Black to trigger the PSU?

[Maurice]

You may also want to refer to this diagram:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ATX

Maurice

[Maurice]

or this link
http://pinouts.ru/Power/atxpower_pinout.shtml

Maurice

[jackpilot]

Thank you guys ,,,tried all this beforhand and got really knowledgeable on the subject but.. the fuq-@»XX thing does not cooperate.

Is it dead
suddenly
4 no reason

[jackpilot]

MAU....THIS IS IT...THANK YOU PAL!

look at that one :
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ATX
scroll down to the middle and you see that pin 13 is ....Orange PLUS Brown !!!
This is what I suspected when I said that since cutting out the connectors it did not work.


This brown 5V whatever its role has to be linked to an orange wire...

[727737Nut]

Jack. I ran into this not to long ago.  Disconnect the pwr chord for at least 10mins. Then try again. Try a disfferent pwr chord.  Try a different gnd to the grn wire. I had 2 psu's do this to me and one of those 3 things fixed the issue. If it senses a short it also will go into lock down mode.
Rob

[jackpilot]

Thanks Rob, joining the brown to one orange wire solved the issue on this model.
Question now:
Looking at that spaghetti plate.....
Reds are 5V 30A, oranges are 3.3V 28A ,yellows are 12V 18A (as per sticker on the case)
What is the best way to hook it to a terminal strip for power distribution.
For each color (voltage) Just one wire  feeding a whole strip ?  In which case would any one do?

[mikeh]

Jack Just one output per color should surely give you all the power you need unless running relays / servos which do take a finite amount of power. in which case take 1 output for the switches / LED's ( hope you havn't got so many LED's to get through 20 odd amps - else your cockpit must be like a little oven when its lit) and a further 1 for relays and an extra 1 for servos

[jackpilot]

Thanks Mike, the LEDs are no prob, I was more worried about the IBLs bulbs.
According to Steve at FDS it is safer to hook up several 5V wires to channel the IBls draw, which is relatively substantial.
I'll have a separate PSU for the overhead (redundancy at a small cost!)
Thanks for the tip.

[jskibo]

Jack, just FYI, I'm running the MIP off 1 PSU output just fine.  Though I'm sure the overhead may take more juice.....

[jackpilot]

One wire for all, including IBLs?
Any red wire?
Just to make super hyper maxi sure!!!! 

[jskibo]

One red 5V and one black ground to the FDS IBL splitter board.  No issues. 

PS is a 550W Antec

Only other mod currently is jumpering the start wires so the PS switch turns it on.  Will be adding a switch for that once I get it on the platform.

Interesting to note, and I know Peter and Steve changed the design to screw terminals now, but the previous IBL board used the Molex connector from the PS directly (male soldered on the original board), so the previous ones were only capable of running on 5V lead and seemed to function.

[jackpilot]

Okee dokee.

[XOrionFE]

I am running all my MIP panels off one wire also Jack.   I plan on using a seperate power supply for the overhead.   Again, one wire to a screw terminal that all the IBLs will hook into.

[Maurice]

Okee dokee.

In your case Jack, I would advise against only using one wire since you do not know what red wires supplied the high current 5V for the motherboard and which red wires supplied the lower current 5 V to the peripherals. I still think you are better off tying them together.

Maurice

[jskibo]

Not to be a downer, but my 5v red wire comes from a molex connector which would have been for peripherals and fans, not from the 20 / 24 pin MB connector.  Runs the MIP IBL just fine, PS fan rarely ever runs other than low

[Maurice]

Not to be a downer, but my 5v red wire comes from a molex connector which would have been for peripherals and fans, not from the 20 / 24 pin MB connector.  Runs the MIP IBL just fine, PS fan rarely ever runs other than low

MIP IBLs are only a small part of the total IBL draw. If you include MCP & overhead, I doubt that would be enough. At any rate, what is the downside of increasing the safety margin by tying the wires together? If the wires are there, why not use them anyway? But then again, that's me. I tend to build things so they can sustain a magnitude 9 earthquake followed by a tsunami 

Maurice

[jskibo]

Not to be a downer, but my 5v red wire comes from a molex connector which would have been for peripherals and fans, not from the 20 / 24 pin MB connector.  Runs the MIP IBL just fine, PS fan rarely ever runs other than low

I tend to build things so they can sustain a magnitude 9 earthquake followed by a tsunami 

Maurice

No harm in adding more, just pointing out the MIP runs fine on one, Jack already said he's using a separate one for the Overhead.

.......and I work for GE and we tend to......ah, nevermind

[mikeh]

Just for the people who cant sleep & love doing maths
all bulbs should have their wattage impressed on them
i.e. 12v 5W

Watts = Volts * amps - so above would give us a single bulb current of 5/12 or roughly 400mA so from this you can work out how many bulbs you can safely run on any given power supply.
If using more than 1 power supply thought should be given to tying the two power supplies together (usually by joining the black zero (or negative) line. This stops potential problems with interfacing circuitry suddenly being faced with very large voltage drops across their gates with consequential smoke and replacement costs
Hope is of some use to someone
Mike

[jackpilot]

well, wires rearranged accordingly and power strips installed, 5V on the left 12V right.
Still need one for ground.