OEM panel questions

[kurt-olsson]

Ok.

Soon my OEM stuff will show up and i allready have some questions.

Is the korry announciator lit up ok with only 12v instead of 28v? How much illumination is lost?

What is the smallest wire gauge i can use for 5v/12v that will put max 5amps in drive. I know it differs due to length but mire what awg you use for 5/12/28v?

I guess relay board is the way to go with the announciators?

[mickc]

Ok.

Soon my OEM stuff will show up and i allready have some questions.

Is the korry announciator lit up ok with only 12v instead of 28v? How much illumination is lost?

What is the smallest wire gauge i can use for 5v/12v that will put max 5amps in drive. I know it differs due to length but mire what awg you use for 5/12/28v?

I guess relay board is the way to go with the announciators?

1:  No, it will be way too dim.  You can change the bulbs to 12v if you need to but that will require heavier wiring (see below)
     The "DIM" setting on the lights test switch supplies 16v, and that is roughly half as bright as 28v.  12v would be about 1/4 of full brightness.

2:  Basic calcs indicate that for a 2m wire run at 5 Amps  you need the following sizes at these voltages:
      5v - 8AWG
      12v - 11 AWG
      28v - 15AWG
     The higher the voltage, the lighter gauge wire is required.

3:  Yes you can use a relay board, although I use Phigdets 0/16/16 cards, these can switch up to 30v without relays etc.
     
While you can use 12v, if you are going to attempt to the OEM route you WILL need a 28v power supply at some stage.  Even if you get a cheap 24v supply from Ebay to start out with, you can adjust the output pot to 28v easily with a screwdriver.

[kurt-olsson]

Thanks Mick!

Cool, didnt know the DIM settings was at 16v. You learn every day.

Does anyone know a link to a 28v powersupply that has build in 220v connectors. Dont know where to buy these cables?

Will look in to phigdeths cards, but i guess relayboard will work aswell and they are cheap.

Its like Rob said, will have to get that 28v supply.

[mickc]

FYI.

Here is an annunciator ar 28v:





and again at 12v




You can get the power supplies on Ebay, and wire them directly to 220V. 
Sample power supply here:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/110-220V-DC-24V-5A-120W-Switching-Power-Supply-Adapter-for-LED-Strip-Lamp-/311374724956?hash=item487f613f5c:g:F1IAAOSwbsBXjCYM

[727737Nut]

You are using Arduino correct? Cheap and simple, to drive the Korry's use ULN2803 chips.  The arduino digital output will trigger the chip and it then supplies the ground path for the Korry.  Works like a champ! Cheap cheap cheap and easy.   Like i said before, one Teensy could drive every Korry in a 737 cockpit using the uln2803's and some multiplex chips.

Rob

[kurt-olsson]

Ah i always forget the multiplexing approach!
I really like that you can parallel connect so all the pins can draw 8x500mA
Thats enough to light up my entire MCP and EFIS.
I even think pwm will work.
Rob, do you have any of your BOB available to buy?

Mick and Rob, have you implemented the DIM function in your cockpit? The only way i can think of that is if you can control your supply with a controller.

Or now when i think about it if you can usw pwm on the ULN2803?

[727737Nut]

I'll check with Scott since he is going back to NG he won't be needing the BOB's he has.  I'll let you know.  For the Korrys that have a dim/bright valve position I simply used PWM to the uln2803.  In theory you could do that for all of them for the bright/dim toggle function. Myself i did not implement that as I feel full brightness is fine.    Want to really blow your mind, the new Teensy 3.6 or 3.5 which is less than 25.00 could run your ENTIRE cockpit, Inputs, Outputs , gauges, led diplay's, etc;  Of course you would need uln20803's and multiplex chips  Still doable for under 50.00!

Rob

[paulnd]

Rob,

Which multiplex chip do you recommend? Will a 74HC595 be ok?

Paul

Edit : or MAX72xx better?

[kurt-olsson]

The uln20803s sre the coolest thing ever! If you paralelle the pins you can use massive amps on those little drivers!

I will start multiplexing more. My previous approach was one teensy / unit for isolation and maintenance. But you can add sooo many multiplex daisychain i am starting to thinking of a new system...

Ixeg also has support for dimmed backlight and announciators when you draw too much amp in the aircraft without correct busses online. How cool is that!

[XOrionFE]

And this is what happens when your not careful and dont properly fuse everything (see picture).  Next thing you know this is smoldering behind your mip and you go to bed....

In this case the parking brake solenoid got stuck engaged and end up backfeed back through the chip.  Just took a couple seconds....

Just posting as a reminder that bad things can happen if you dont plan and take proper precautions.

scott

[Ridgenj]

  Want to really blow your mind, the new Teensy 3.6 or 3.5 which is less than 25.00 could run your ENTIRE cockpit, Inputs, Outputs , gauges, etc.
Rob

Paul still needs backers for the Teensy 3.5 and 3.6 , if interested check  Kickstarter

[Bob Reed]

What I want is to be able to use this with FSX!!

[727737Nut]

Link to FS  Bob

[mickc]

I agree with Bob, if we had the same versatility as the Xplane datarefs for Teensy / Arduino for FSX & P3D that would be awesome!

Link2FS is pretty good, but quite slow in processing and a bit limited in what you can do. Its a pity its not being developed or supported anymore, I think that i could have developed into a great platform.

[727737Nut]

Rob,

Which multiplex chip do you recommend? Will a 74HC595 be ok?

Paul

Edit : or MAX72xx better?

Paul,
Depends on your interface but either should work.  Teensy's are 3.3v and arduino 5v so just keep that in mind as some chips are not 3.3v compatible. 
Rob

[kurt-olsson]

Just a little update.


Can anyone see using 24v as a problem instead of 28v?

Do the gauges need exact 28v for functioning?

[quid246]

If it's for Korry's... probably not much difference in brightness and they will run a smidgen cooler due to the lower voltage.

Logic boards (if you decide to use them) can probably operate at 24V though, there has to be a lot of tolerance in these parts in the event of power sagging or other unexpected events.

[kurt-olsson]

Thanks, will get a 24v and if the analog gauges require 28, i will get one of those aswell.