better is to drive two channel with two each panel.
The UNL2803a give so many options of controllig, love this thing! so powerful and ridicoulusly cheap!

Kurt,
If you try and pass to much more than the 200ma  you will just probably blow the fuse
that protects the meter. Just multiply the amount of bulbs by 60ma to see what your loading
is.
Good range multimeters are very cheap on ebay. Easily do 10A dc. A must really for any diy
cockpit builder .
Those those chips are cheap driver.

Yeah, will invest in a amp meter. That will make my life easier.

Dont drink and fly kids!

Pretty disappointed...
Even with db connectors and cut wires this looks like a mess.

I would like more clean cables from hardware and these should be connected to a custom pcb, now THAT would be nice. But i wont redo this panel, its my first and i will redo it once i have the time. Right now i want my project to move forward.

There will be a power mount connector on thf panel for +5V,+24V and Ground. The usb will be connected to the teensy as is.

Hey Kurt -Peter
I think you're being a bit hard on yourself, that looks neat enough to me.  You should see inside some of my panels 
Joe

I can recommend DB connectors with crimping instead of solder. So much easier and looks great. Little more expensive though but you're gonna make a lot of those connectors

Please post some pictures of your pcb. I'm gonna try making some myself and would love to see what yours look like

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Do you mean my selfbuild pcb or " to be designed with CAD?"

Designed in cad please :-) I'm totally newbee to designing pcb's

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Will report back once its exists! Haha newbie myself!

Tip of the day!

Do not run 24V through your microcontroller.

It gets:

1, very hot
2, very little functionality left

Haha

Poff!

New PCB, i messed up alittle. Thought you only could dim with PWM and not analog, but snalog works just fine so i could have placed the chip closer to the teensy and got rid of all the jumper ables.

Work continues...

Finally my first panel is completed. The second one started. Wish i had longer standoffs so it wasnt so tight in the box.

For me, its all about making it simple, cut everything out that isnt needed to make it as clean simple and tight as possible. I want each panel to be a selfcontained box that can eSily be removed if troubleshooting is needed.

Note to myself!

Of course it MUST be a PWM output for write analog signal!

Tonight its me, beer and Elec Panel!

Haha not exactly groundbraking stuff but still very cool!
Anti Ice panel 100% complete with push to test functionality which i think is really cool.

Made a small video
https://youtu.be/W9OnJaoqAAs

OEM korrys is really something else. Looks great! I'm missing some really good korry replicas on the market.

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Thanks Anders!

Db25 completed for the elec panel.

Isn't that the hydraulic pumps panel? 

Haha thats right!

Having all this gear i have to take my 737 skills to a new level! Any real pilot (or anyone else) is very welcome for procedural training later.

Hows your build Mickc?

Would love some more videos! 😊

Much more happy with this panel.

More slim circuitboard and it is attached at the back and the whole panel can be closed.

Only power cable and usb at the back.

Now were talking!
Everything in a neat OEM box!

Can only get one backlight at a time to work... wierd...

But ill look into that later.

This is cool!

..

Quote from: kurt-olsson on October 08, 2018, 09:29:37 PM
Haha thats right!

Having all this gear i have to take my 737 skills to a new level! Any real pilot (or anyone else) is very welcome for procedural training later.

Hows your build Mickc?

Would love some more videos! 😊

Very slow, but at a similar stage to you at the moment....
These still all need to be wired up inside so the connectors have no pins in them

Hey Mick, Qantas called...they want their overhead back.

Closest overhead I've ever seen to the real thing....by far!

My goodness mickc. That's something for the eye ?

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