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737-800 Arduino X-Plane Build

Started by kurt-olsson, September 06, 2015, 01:39:47 AM

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navymustang

My 737-800 full-scale cockpit is complete and been put in storage (for sale). Now onto my full-size helicopter project. An AOPA member and LifeTime member of National Association of Flight Instructors. Please note that I am a self-employed professional cockpit builder that provides consulting to defense contractors and civilian schools and airlines.

kurt-olsson

Progress on window heat panel

kurt-olsson

Could not let go of what Jim told me about the circuit breaker wall. My posts was in the wrong place so i moved them to where the door should be.

Otherwise, motivation really low.

Perhaps there will be some custom J-rails installed before the year ends. (In one seat at least)

Next will be working on the sidewalls... yikes.. woodwork... :(

navymustang

My 737-800 full-scale cockpit is complete and been put in storage (for sale). Now onto my full-size helicopter project. An AOPA member and LifeTime member of National Association of Flight Instructors. Please note that I am a self-employed professional cockpit builder that provides consulting to defense contractors and civilian schools and airlines.

kurt-olsson

Has anyone tried to move the lockingpin lever 3-5cm more to the inside sucessfully?

mickc

You should be able to do it, the block that the pin slides in will need to be moved across the frame, and will need  threaded inserts installed into the frame as it is hollow.  the arm can be relocated on the shaft and new hole drilled through it for the bolt.

kurt-olsson

This is excellent news! Custom J-rails is on the way. Just as long i can slide the locking levers 3-5 cm on the shaft i should be able to build something that will hold the pin itself and fit the J-rails.
I really like the original rails-design and not the one where you attach the seat to a plate that moves on the rails. I will have custom boogies created aswell. (Hopefully)

kurt-olsson

Thanks to Archen here on the forums and my collaboration this project will gain momentum!

kurt-olsson


mickc

Nice job Peter!

Have you put any thought into how to drive the type 2 Korrys with the grey end blocks?

kurt-olsson

Which one do you mean Mick? Where are they located inthe cockpit?

mickc

There's a few around the overhead panels, like the APU/Bus panel.  They use positive to activate, instead of ground.

kurt-olsson

November 13, 2018, 12:05:02 AM #562 Last Edit: November 13, 2018, 12:24:09 AM by kurt-olsson
No plan for it right now, will see what i have to come up with. =)

But i can think of one, use spare korrys and switch the caps to a korry 318 and mount that instead so it all fits to my PCB.
Use the front, but replace the back so to say.

mickc

Rodger!

I did the 4 type 2 ones in my fire panel with small relays that i took from a gutted ACP, but i have almost 25 to work with in the overheads.  Remember the type 1 end caps do not mate with the type 2 bodies, so you may need to get creative with the keyways ;)

I have some I/O boards that you can select ground or supply side switching with in banks of 8, so I will probably use those for the ones i need.

kurt-olsson

Back online with one panel using the new PCB. Great to get rid of the 5V mess...

kurt-olsson

Home made power busses! :)

Steenos

Kurt, you are killing it! I wish I hadn't had to sell all my stuff but I'm going to work at KBOS tower next year :)

mickc

Quote from: kurt-olsson on November 18, 2018, 09:29:10 AM
Home made power busses! :)

I might suggest something a bit more protected than that...  it would only take a dropped screwdriver/spanner even a screw to short those plates and take out your power supply or worse.
Have a look at marine bus bars for a cheap and safe alternative, worst case, cut a plastic cover out and mount it on top of at least the positive bars.

kurt-olsson

Totally agree with you mick. I am in the making of acrylic top covers that will be mounted ontop of the plates.

kurt-olsson

Quote from: Steenos on November 18, 2018, 02:06:43 PM
Kurt, you are killing it! I wish I hadn't had to sell all my stuff but I'm going to work at KBOS tower next year :)

Thanks! Work and family first! 😊

kurt-olsson

Yikes!
LED amongs OEM lightning... disgusting...

I will give it a try with some black film to cover the led up and then turn down the brightness by 70%.
If i cant cover up the plastic strip with some film or glas cover, i will remove it.

Really disappointing in both look and feel.


navymustang

I think almost everyone here has used this technique to light up the MCP. I bet once you connect to the lower panel dimmers you will really like the effect.
My 737-800 full-scale cockpit is complete and been put in storage (for sale). Now onto my full-size helicopter project. An AOPA member and LifeTime member of National Association of Flight Instructors. Please note that I am a self-employed professional cockpit builder that provides consulting to defense contractors and civilian schools and airlines.

kurt-olsson

Will try to add some diffuser, i dont like when you see the dotted led lights.

Hope they are really slim, i would like to integrate it to my MCP lip.

mickc

Protip:

1:Use Warm white LED strips, use the higher density 600 leds per 5m stuff
2:Use a proper mounting channel, this can be recessed into the glareshield etc and also has a diffuser built in.  like this one: http://lightingmatters.com.au/wp/shop/slim-recess-line-led-strip-mounting-profile/
3:put a strip of lighting filter material between the LED strip and the diffuser.  I used Lee filters 022 dark amber.

this will correct the light color, and remove the dot effect of the leds.

kurt-olsson

Just bought this:
https://ledsale.se/infalld-mini-led-aluminiumprofil.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pla&gclid=Cj0KCQiA_s7fBRDrARIsAGEvF8Qjzh2DRnb5G8MOBh1P06RO8sIdN8BpuUT0tekJ815JAn6fdK-LjT8aAn3YEALw_wcB

Any tip on how to drill/make a channel for the strip to be installed in.

Make a line and draw lots of holes?

Problem is that my MDF is 8mm thick and this needs 6mm for installation.


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