Welcome to Cockpitbuilders.com. Please login or sign up.

April 14, 2021, 11:05:55 PM

Login with username, password and session length


Fly Elise-ng
8 Guests, 0 Users
  • Total Posts: 56901
  • Total Topics: 7574
  • Online Today: 21
  • Online Ever: 582
  • (January 22, 2020, 08:44:01 AM)
Users Online
Users: 0
Guests: 8
Total: 8



Will Depart in...



737-800 Arduino X-Plane Build

Started by kurt-olsson, September 06, 2015, 01:39:47 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.


Work continues...

Thinking of borrowing the yaw damper switch to my auto throttle instead, will do more use there.


Need a little help here.

I connected the nr 7cable to + 24V and the negative to cable nr 8. But nothing happened to the switch, was not able to engage it and at the same time the negative cable on my psu became really hot.

I am not the best of circuitread so any tip is helpful.


7 & 8 are the correct terminals, but make sure you have isolated all the other wiring from the switch.  There are logic boards in the panel that can cause issues.

Also make sure you are connecting using the right polarity, there is a flyback diode across the solenoid that will just cause a short if you connect it backwards.

The other the could be that the switch has failed. I has 2 that failed before got them, one has a dead solenoid, the other had bad switch contacts.


Thanks for the info mick.
I have a feeling that the switch is broken. When circuits tend to fail i get these symptoms on load through the circuit.
I will test once again to make sure i did not reverse the polarity, but sadly this might be broken.

Damn, it would work really well as autothrottle...

Thanks again for your help mick.


It works!!!

Mick you must start work for boeing!!! :)
It was as you said a small cable that was wired between terminal 7-8 with small resistor, that was of course why the overload was in my cable, the amps went right theough it instead of the switch. I cut that little cable and voila! It works!

Million thanks, hope i can sometime repay you with some knowledge thanks to all help i gave gotten from you!



That wire with the resistor would have actually been the diode i was talking about.   If you tried the polarity both ways, and it still caused a short, then its possible the diode was faulty.


Guess i need to be careful now to not connect with faulty polarity, without that diode ot could do damage to the switch i guess.


The LED diffuser is EPIC!

The finish is really good! Cant wait to get this installed!


I give up...

How on earth can you integrate a 6mm deep diffuser in 8mm thick mdf.

Just destroyed my glareshield...

Dont see how i can do this without cnc machines etc...

I HATE the wood work, its hard and boooring!

Joe Lavery

:Kurt, you can do it easily with a router, I did it using 6mm MDF. I machined a slot using a 5mm cutter to a depth of 4mm then I used a 6mm one at just 1mm depth. That's deep enough to take the LED strip and allows space for a 1mm strip of opal acrylic.
It is easier with a CNC but quite possible with hand held tools. :2cw:
Life isn't about waiting for the storm to pass, it's about learning to dance in the rain

Journalist - writer for  PC Pilot Magazine


Thanks Joe.

My new plan is to do like you, just add the Diffuser of plastic and not the aluminium rail itself. The real MCP light is pretty small width (from pictures it looks like 8mm or something)

Hopefully it is enough to drill only about 4-5mm deep and 8-10mm width.


Setback deluxe!

All this for a lightstrip...


MIP light turned out really nice. I had to remove the mcp plate and cut the aluminum. It might not look like much but the really nice thing is that the LED diffuser dont hangabunder, it is at the same level as the bottom of the mcp plate.

At lease some progress.

I think i can get the mcp lights dont with a routing tool. But its not fun to have to buy a tool for 200 dollars for just cutting the Glareshield once... 😩


Lee filter dark amber 022 ordered. Will give the color a nice ambient feeling!


Oh yeah!

Dark amber 022 FTW! What a nice lighting! It really blends in with the OEM 5V Backlight.

Having a really hard time with soldering the LED strips. Would like to know how you do with the connections, i solder and put heatshrink on but the connection is really flimsy and if you pull a cable to hard its game over and the LED connection is destroyed.



Anyone know how to remove this, let me know.

I put the caps off but then two steel threads come along with it. Is it a hex screw inside like the korry 318?


Quote from: kurt-olsson on December 10, 2018, 11:24:46 AM
Anyone know how to remove this, let me know.

I put the caps off but then two steel threads come along with it. Is it a hex screw inside like the korry 318?

Just pull the cap out of the holder. Be aware that the cap remains attached to the assembly.

When the cap is removed things should become obviously on how to remove the complete assembly.


Was little tricky but once again Simparts.de shines! The OEM switch fitted like a glove!
The Classic sticker was to wide so i had to cut it a bit.


Oh and thanks Jeffrey for some instructions.


New power bus installed.

If anyone have a tip of a "wire system" for the overhead, let me know.
I am thinking of routing the cables on the side... right now it looks like a mess and i would like to avoid that.


Way more professional.

0 motivation right now.


Snail pace ahead captain!

Solder two db connectors for flight control panel.

Also recieved my custom PCB that i made with archen. 30 units.


More soldering of db connectors.

The large panels will have two db25 connectors and two pcb cards.

Like the Website ?
Support Cockpitbuilders.com and Click Below to Donate