Overhead Wiring Considerations

[Sean]

I'm close to start wiring my overhead and am just thinking out aloud about all the various power supplies and interfaces I'll need up there. Would you mind if I share my thoughts?

Please let me know if you think I've missed anything or am thinking along the wrong lines.

In no particular order:

• Interfaces:


• FDS SYS1X
• FDS ELEC-CAB-SYS
• Flight Illusion GSA55
• Phidgets Relay Card

• USB required for:


• FDS SYS1X
• FDS ELEC-CAB-SYS
• Flight Illusion GSA55
• Phidgets Relay Card

• 12v DC required for:


• FDS SYS1X (not sure this needs power, but it has a 12v input)
• GSA55
• Engravity Backlighting
• Pedestal Floodlight
• Anders Start Switches
• Yaw Damper Switch
• Wing Anti-Ice Switch
• Voice Recorder Switch

• 5v DC required for:


• GSA55
• Trim Air Valve Backlight

Have I forgot anything?

With regards USB:

• Can I stick a USB hub up there and take one USB cable from the PC?
• This would mean all relevant software would have to be on that PC. Is that a problem?
• Would it have to be a powered hub?

With regards power:

• Provided the PSU has enough umpfff, can I take one 12v supply up there and distribute it from a breakout board?
• How much umpfff would I need?
• Use a voltage regulator(s) on the breakout board to give me the 5v output

I haven't decided on what software to use yet. I have the PM avionics, but I'm most likely going to go with Prosim, but may consider Sim-A.

Like I said, I'm just thinking out aloud here, but would welcome any thoughts.

Thanks.

Sean

[blueskydriver]

Hi Sean,

Glad to hear your Overhead (OVRHD) is going up soon. Here is my advice on the last two: USB and PSU. On USB, you can place a "powered" hub up behind the OVRHD, but make sure it is the same match as your computers USB port type. 1.0 to 1.0 (which is old), 2.0 to 2.0, 3.0 to 3.0 and etc. This way you wont have unexpected USB disconnects.

You can place all items on the same computer for ProSim and that includes Mip, Ped and throttle assy. Now, I read recently that PM says it can run the same way; all programs on one PC. I have not tried it with PM, but I since havent done it doesn't means its not possible, it just means for "me" it's not possible; however, if someone else has done that with PM they havent shared any info yet. No discredit to PM, Im just saying I have not seen it that way before; maybe, you could try it?

As for the PSU, you can pull 12 and 5 volts from a good used PSU unit. If you going to run a lot from it, get a 500 watt or better. Or, you could calculate your watt requirment by amps x volts = watts. Just make sure the PSU fan has an access for air supply to keep it cool. Your Sys1X uses power from the USB connection as far as I know; that is what I use at this point. So, unless you really need 12volts on it, go with USB power.

Okay, here are some other tidbits:

1. Make sure you label everything for later work; especially, the 5 volt and 12 volt outputs of the PSU.
2. On the FDS Elec-Cab-Sys there is a certain way to put it together, so make sure you follow the instruction sheet from Steve or PM him if you have questions...
3. If you're running a long USB cable from the computer to the OVRHD, you'll have to stay within length limits unless you have an USB extender device (either USB to USB or USB to Cat 5/6).
4. Are you going to use FDS backlight dimmers for the OVRHD, if not you should as that'll give you the dimming, but it also gives you a nice breakout board to use in a sense.
5. If you're eventually going to get an Aft OVRHD, plan for it now in regards to USB, power needs, FDS dimmers and whatever else. Mainly, plan for the heat and air flow for both units now.

Finally, what type of wiring are you using? I used Cat5 cables because it kept everything in enclosed casings. Although, I didn't do a pretty job of tying it all down, so it looks a little hectic, but since it's not seen...well, you get the idea...lol.

Please post pics as you go along,

John

[Jetcos]

Great info from John.

FDS SYS1X requires 12V external power to run the LED's. (Older SYS1 cards used the USB power to run the LED's.)

If you can't run the PSU up in the OH then use 10 gauge wire on long runs to reduce the voltage drop created by long runs of wire. Not sure on the amperage of your OH? IS it LED?

[sagrada737]

Good comment by Steve.  We typically don't consider "voltage drop", but it can be a factor. 

For those that might be interested, here is a handy chart that show what wire gauge is required for a given current draw.

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/amps-wire-gauge-d_730.html

Mike