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Help with yoke construction.

Started by kurt-olsson, October 28, 2017, 12:24:41 PM

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kurt-olsson

The problem...

Caflyt

I don't recall having any problems removing that piece. It was a couple of years ago though.
Have you tried tapping it out with a punch and a hammer?

Craig

mickc

Quote from: kurt-olsson on November 02, 2017, 12:42:46 PM
i will copy this solution.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s29E1CN_k6U

In my opinion., you should find a better design to copy.   If you want to make it realistic, that is.
That design only has about 50-60 degrees of movement each way with the for the ailerons, where the real thing has 105 degrees each way.

Another issue would be the way the cables are terminated, that would allow a lot of play between the 2 yokes,

Again, this is just my opinion, there are many different ways to do this.

Also Craig is quite correct, that bolt should just tap out with a punch.  It will be a friction fit into the bearings which is why its just turns.

XOrionFE

I just punched mine out as the others have mentioned.

Scott

kurt-olsson

Thanks all. I will focus also on Scotts design, looks pro and seems to work awesome in his videos.

Scott: Do you have to adjust anything after a couple of years? Like cable tension etc, or is your setup as it was in the videos still?

kurt-olsson

#30
removed, saw the answer in previous post.

kurt-olsson

Would also be great to know the diameter of your tubes...

bernard S

why an earth are you going down the rabbit hole?.. heck you have the orginal parts . use them save you so much grief   unless you enjoy grief ... get chapter 27 as i said    and your done ...theres the water bowl  for your horse lol

kurt-olsson

Quote from: bernard S on November 04, 2017, 04:52:25 PM
why an earth are you going down the rabbit hole?.. heck you have the orginal parts . use them save you so much grief   unless you enjoy grief ... get chapter 27 as i said    and your done ...theres the water bowl  for your horse lol

The original setup requires too much height. About 50-60cm, too much for my room. I took the boxes apeart last night, will use the wheels and bearings. Hopefully this setup will be easy. (Almost as easy as the Original setup)

kurt-olsson

Will use following parts...

kurt-olsson

Bingo!

Didnt feel right to not use the OEM stuff so i thought about a solution and came up with this!

A smallex box than the original but i can still use the Clevis and Spade joint!
So no rod pressing and custom stuff! This saves me time and money and so cool to have the original stuff. Even the cable is from the real aircraft!

So happy i found this solution. ( even though Bernard kind of told me) but hey, with my miniture stand i pass under 30cm of height!

archen

Quote from: kurt-olsson on November 22, 2017, 11:19:48 AM
Bingo!

Didnt feel right to not use the OEM stuff so i thought about a solution and came up with this!

A smallex box than the original but i can still use the Clevis and Spade joint!
So no rod pressing and custom stuff! This saves me time and money and so cool to have the original stuff. Even the cable is from the real aircraft!

So happy i found this solution. ( even though Bernard kind of told me) but hey, with my miniture stand i pass under 30cm of height!
Noticed the "Rusta" cardboard, you from Sweden?

Skickat från min SM-G955F via Tapatalk

------------
Anders Simparts
http://www.anderssimparts.com
https://www.facebook.com/ArchenSimparts
Selling "Hard-to-get" simparts like authentic Engine starters, Autobrake, IRS mode selectors and N1&SPD Ref Switches.
------------

kurt-olsson

Quote from: archen on November 22, 2017, 11:43:17 AM
Noticed the "Rusta" cardboard, you from Sweden?

Skickat från min SM-G955F via Tapatalk

Jajemen, från GöööteBörg! :)
Gillar dina konstruktioner skarpt, ska nog slå till på dina startswitches sen när jag har det mesta uppe o snurrar.

archen

Cool :-) Det finns ett par till 737 byggare i Göteborg



Skickat från min SM-G955F via Tapatalk

------------
Anders Simparts
http://www.anderssimparts.com
https://www.facebook.com/ArchenSimparts
Selling "Hard-to-get" simparts like authentic Engine starters, Autobrake, IRS mode selectors and N1&SPD Ref Switches.
------------

kurt-olsson

kanske borde ha en byggareträff snart i sverige o samla denna fanatiska trupp. :) Hade varit skoj.

bernard S

now you on rightbroad to hell using oem.parts    once the fitment is how you like .. here is of that wood its the devils work   make it out of metal   why because these items you use most ..so no distortion     .. this one of the few items need be strong and correct .why because later on down line you will add control loading by bff ..yiu know you will lol   

kurt-olsson

Hahah Maybe i will add control loading, but not in the near future! Haha.
I will create a "prototype" in wood and once i know all the measurements etc i will convert it to some steelframe.



kurt-olsson

#43
Quote from: Flying_Fox on November 23, 2017, 12:40:48 PM
My design fits into 20 cm floor level  :angel:

http://elephantair737.blogspot.ca/p/control-columns.html

:2cw:

Nick

Yeah, thats one nice thing when not using the OEM steeringbox and crosstube. You can go low! (Hip hop song someone?)

bernard S

kurt may i make a suggestion with regards to yiyr buikd and where you are at now...  what you are doing is super cool period..oem parts for somethings are the only way to go... what you are doing noe is emuati g a simulator rather than simulating the aircraft  there is a huge difference between the two ...

my suggestion is since you are doing up down and left right with your control uprights... and you have it all open i think.the best bang for yiyr buck is to add control loading now.. just on a single control surface   ... the pretty stuff can come later .. it may not make sence to you now   but with cl.in place yiur "sim" is noe a sim
and it will not fly like a train    .. if you ever do one thing I tell yiu.. this is it ..lol

kurt-olsson

I will make the box easy to access. I feel that i dont have any knowledge in control loading right now, so i need to do some investigation first. I dont even know what parts to get. :)

bernard S

a linkage   bff software and a motor

kurt-olsson

Can anyone help me confirm that the spade and clevis joint is properly setup. When the film begins i have the yoke centered. In the drawings and some samples i have seen that the spade and joint is turned 90 degrees.
Just would be glad to get some input of anyone who has used the same setup.

https://youtu.be/YvRzmMrxQUo

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