Optoma GT1080Darbee Projectors

[FredK]

I just replaced my three Optoma GT1080 projectors with the new Optoma GT1080Darbee version.

The new Darbee technology feature is advertised to enhance sharpness, color, and depth perception.

So my initial report:

Pros:

The Darbee feature works as advertised.  It does make a very noticeable difference with regards to the crispness of the projection particular for smaller details.  It also seems to impart a kind of "depth" perception.  All that is definitely an improvement.  There is a slick feature where you can evaluate your Darbee setting (0-120) in a split screen format.  I have mine running at the nominal 70.  Looks fine, not artificial etc., but I will be experimenting with higher settings.

Brightness and Contrast specs are slightly better....and does seem to be an improvement even with Darbee turned off

Same low price.

Cons:

I was hoping the new projectors would eliminate the slight differences I was seeing in color hue and intensity from one projector to the other.  Somewhat disappointingly,  there is little improvement in that regard.  Two of my new projectors are exactly the same, but the one other is slightly different.  So I am back to fussing with color settings etc.  My conclusion is that this has been and still is an inherent issue with these projectors.

Same low price....you can't expect to get anymore than you pay for.

Fred K

[Trevor Hale]

How is the screen door effect Fred?

[FredK]

There is no evidence that anything has changed regarding pixelation.

However the "screen door" effect has never been an issue in my setup....it has to do with projected pixel concentration.

For two reasons in my case:

(1) I am projecting onto a 18' wide x 4' high screen.  This is a somewhat smaller screen size than most here use.  It serves to concentrate projected pixels.

(2) I am using a 4:3 format with butted (no overlap) projection.  As reported previously I have gone back and forth on this one but I have locked into the "butted" method.  The issue is that with the overlap method your visible pixel concentration is diluted further due to the lost pixels in the overlap area.  Also, I have experienced that periodically my screen calibration will drift requiring recalibration.  A butted projection is far more tolerant in this regard than the slightly blurred overlap region that occurs otherwise. 

The net is that I lose somewhat in the immersiveness of a larger projection area, but I gain in the quality of the projection with regards to brightness and clarity of detail....with absolutely no screen door perception.

But to each his own on this.  It is a matter of preference.

Fred K

[Trevor Hale]

Thanks Fred..  I know some screens have it really bad, and you loose the detail of taxi signs etc with the screen door effect.

If I was to go to Projectors, (Which I can't unless I get some really short throw projectors) But If  I was, I would also use the butted method.  I am not a fan of the projector overlap myself either.

Trev

[jackpilot]

I use one projector only for outside display (about 15' wide screen) and with the high resolution that the Optoma allows I get no screen  door effect.

[tennyson]

I spent aeons trying to get the perfect blend and merge and then one day, a long time back, I got it.
Then I continued to have a near perfect merge and blend for about a year of fabulous flying.

Then along came all of the upgrades.

P3d V4 and 4.1, as good as they have been, have wrecked my perfect blend and I am once more, back in the toilet.
I spent near on 3 months toying and toiling to get that same result I had earlier achieved, but could not, due to massive differences in all three projectors.

I took drastic measures and built a single, monster PC and am OC'ing the bejesus out of it, and running my 3 GTX 1080's in it, to see if running from a single PC will give me the blend and warp again.

I've done extensive testing and have all my new Prosim 2.0 set up and ready to go, along with the dreary job of installing thousands of dollars of add-on scenery and utility software.

Next job is to get it out in the cockpit and set it up with Fly-Elise and do a calibration using Calibration Pro and then ultimate installation of the output files into Immersive display pro.

I know that works, quite a few are doing it, but I wanted an environment with traffic, high end graphic scenery, decent weather depiction and a few utilities, such as FS Flight control, without running an overpriced slide show.

So, I will be venturing into the unknown shortly. Hope 2018 returns me to the nirvana of 2016.....

I must also say, that you, Fred, along with other helpful forum guru's, with your wonderful information, led to me originally cracking the earlier state of visual bliss.

Frank

[RayS]

Thanks for the information, Fred.

It's disappointing to say the least that the color isn't consistent across projectors. Having looked at the Darbee version, I was intrigued by the REC.709 HDTV color space the projector uses and was hoping that the reference model would significantly reduce the color/saturation/hue differences.

Maybe some further experimentation is in order?

I am excited that I'll be replacing 2 low-end BenQ projectors with 3 Optima units.  I may be able to get more light out of them because with 3, I can get them closer to the screen as light drop-off is a square of the distance.

[ifeliciano]

How is the screen door effect Fred?

It's been a while since I've delved into the projection world, but back when I built my home theater, "screen door effect" (SDE) was always associated to LCD projectors.
Did that issue also moved on to DLP? I've never seen SDE on any of my DLP PJ's unless I was a foot from the screen. I do recall the big thing about DLP was the "rainbow" effect, which I wasn't susceptible to.


Fred. That is disappointing to  say the least. Can a professional calibration get the PJ colors close enough? Wonder what the colorimeter readings on each PJ would be?
With low cost projectors, the manufacturers aren't going to spend a lot of time tweaking. As long as the calibration falls within certain range, that PJ is going out the door.

[FredK]

This was literally my first look at the projector performance, and to be sure, the difference across projectors that I am seeing is better than what I had previously.  I do plan to investigate color uniformity tweaking further of course, however the first priority is to do a Fly Elise screen recalibration. The color uniformity may be something simple to get perfect in this case, but I know from experience that one can get lost with the many interacting variables involved what with individual color settings, gamma correction etc. doing it in the typical "trial and error" method.  Using actual colorimeter measurements and related software is something I have not pursued.  Has anyone actually done this and can recommend such? I think I will have a look at all that.

Fred K

[ifeliciano]

Actual colorimeter measurements and professional help is something I never thought about.  Is there a specific step-by-step process one can follow for colorimetry rather than grunt "trial and error"? I have to look into that.

Fred K

Fred. Its been a while for me and I don't want to steer you wrong. The folks over at AVSForum might have the answer you seek.

[tennyson]

Brian Williamson from the Gold Coast put a post up here about colour calibrators a while back. Maybe he can chime in here, as to the results he achieved.


Frank

[Flying_Fox]

Speaking of Optoma GT1080Darbee projectors - I also have them.

Here is a couple of quick HD videos demonstrating the dynamic Darbee test mode on ORBX Innsbruck scenery.
Darbee mode ON from left to right and OFF otherwise.

https://youtu.be/TXE4x3Y6YoM

https://youtu.be/gCLuFIg3cpw



Nick

[tennyson]

Nick,
From the two video's, I see no difference as (I presume) the swipe goes one way or the other. As there is no audio to tell us what is happening, it is hard to tell if this is the point you are trying to make, especially as it's a static shot with no movement.

If that is the case, I see no discernible difference with the darbee turned on.


Frank

[FredK]

If you see it firsthand you will see a definite difference...it is just difficult to capture such nuances in a video.

Fred K

[Flying_Fox]

Nick,
From the two video's, I see no difference as (I presume) the swipe goes one way or the other. As there is no audio to tell us what is happening, it is hard to tell if this is the point you are trying to make, especially as it's a static shot with no movement.

If that is the case, I see no discernible difference with the darbee turned on.


Frank

Hi Frank,

If you watch video full-screen at 1080p, look at these areas circled red. Darbee swipes ON from left to right and you should see areas getting more contrast and clear. Sim was in Pause mode.





The effect is noticeable and could be compared, like, you a wearing dirty glasses and then clean them up.

Nick

[Ridgenj]

Hi guys, impressive! I have thee unopened Optoma GT1080, my screen is 16x4 projection area. I am upgrading all my systems for P3D4.1 and ProSim2.0.
Having said that, can you guys shime in with recommendation to keep current PJ or to get the new version.
Cheers
Luis

[RayS]

If it were me, I'd upgrade. Because as you're flying with the old ones the thought will always be in the back of your head "This could be better"

[Ridgenj]

Wise advice Ray! What could I ask for the 3 brand new unopened ones


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[ifeliciano]

If it were me, I'd upgrade. Because as you're flying with the old ones the thought will always be in the back of your head "This could be better"

LOL. Ray will spend your money guys....

I'd weigh the pros and cons between the plain GT1080 and the Darbee. Then decide if your $$/performance is worth it.

[Ridgenj]

This is my first HD curved 200 FOV screen, so I might not know what I am missing. For sure a laser projector for 5k a pop will make a difference


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[Ridgenj]

LOL. Ray will spend your money guys.... ?

You are right, last time Ray showed me something special looking like an OEM, I end up spending money with his preferred Australian vendor.



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[tennyson]

Hey Luis,
The current price for a Darbee, from Amazon, which is where I bought mine, is $696 US and the older one is $679. This is without shipping.

Bear in mind that "old mate" FredK is selling his as well, so don't undercut him....haha, but if you are reasonable and put them on some other forums I don't think you'll have too much trouble shifting them and upgrading.


Good luck....



Frank

[RayS]

LOL. Ray will spend your money guys.... ?

You are right, last time Ray showed me something special looking like an OEM, I end up spending money with his preferred Australian vendor.

...just keeping the tradition alive. A friend of mine on this forum likes to spend my money as well. 

[FredK]

Bear in mind that "old mate" FredK is selling his as well, so don't undercut him....haha, but if you are reasonable and put them on some other forums I don't think you'll have too much trouble shifting them and upgrading.

My old ones are sold....so get what the market will bear!

Fred K

[tennyson]

Just to clear things up, Fred, I used  "old mate" as a colloquial term and not referring to your age.

Hahaha....to be politically correct!



Frank