Hey Everyone,
Here are some preferred video links I watched when starting out with the CR-10S. Mind you some are for the CR-10, but they do apply to the S model.
These are by San Tube's channel
https://youtu.be/KTAPC9_HFh0 (https://youtu.be/KTAPC9_HFh0)
https://youtu.be/ZAJOjWeyMJg (https://youtu.be/ZAJOjWeyMJg)
https://youtu.be/xH26U2asLL4 (https://youtu.be/xH26U2asLL4)
https://youtu.be/mPyaEi7_fFM (https://youtu.be/mPyaEi7_fFM)
https://youtu.be/wEvIEVAJ_P8 (https://youtu.be/wEvIEVAJ_P8)
I suggest you watch most of his other videos regarding the CR-10...
Also, I use Simplify 3d software to do all the model setup/print settings and I like this much better over Cura. Please watch all of the training videos for Simplify 3d.
Start Here:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/videos/ (https://www.simplify3d.com/support/videos/)
If you have questions about the CR-10, just post them and for other 3d printing questions in general, post those as well. The amount of Cockpit Builders' members with the CR-10 and/or other models is growing; therefore, there are more knowledgable users, who are building cockpits, that can answer now...
John
I will add some more info to this thread soon, now that I got the CR-10S5 and the CR-10S4 coming...
John
https://www.th3dstudio.com/ezabl-kit/ (https://www.th3dstudio.com/ezabl-kit/)
Highly recommend their ABL kit that is plug and play for the CR-10's. It includes an updated firmware so the system can store the matrix for your bed. It helps maintain a level bed.
Also, https://www.th3dstudio.com/product/cr-10solidmounts/ (https://www.th3dstudio.com/product/cr-10solidmounts/) to change out the springs to work better with the ABL.
Finally, adding some dampers to the servo motors will do two things, help remove any bed jitter from the shifting of the motors, and make your printer SIGNIFICANTLY more quiet.
I love my CR-10s. Currently working on a Ford V-8 FlatHead for my dad that is motorized.
Hey Jason,
Thank you for posting the TH3D info and links. After I watched both videos on the EZABL Connect, I think this would be a very worth wild purchase; especially, there would no more manual leveling of the beds that I do before each and every print...OMG!
Once I get the new S4 here, I will order 4 EZABL Connect units along with the solid mounts and cam mounts...
John
Okay, here are some links I promised:
First, even though these items are not specific to CR-10 3D printers, they are what I use to make my prints better on the CR-10.
The vacuum sealer I purchased is from Walmart and it works great, but you must also buy the separate 11"x16" 1 gallon bags for the standard size filament spools.
Here is the Vacuum Sealer:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mossy-Oak-Gamekeeper-Vac-Sealer/254961099 (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mossy-Oak-Gamekeeper-Vac-Sealer/254961099)
Here are the bags:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mossy-Oak-GameKeeper-Gallon-Vaccum-Bags/324965059 (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mossy-Oak-GameKeeper-Gallon-Vaccum-Bags/324965059)
Next, is the dehydrator units I purchased and modified by cutting out the center sections on three of the four trays. I have four of these units, one for each printer. Why four? Well, I like to dehydrate the filament spool for 12 hours at 40 C before using it for printing; however, if I want to run multiple printers I need multiple dehydrators running. The key or reason to all of this dehydration is eliminating stringy prints or bumps/print zits, and I can fully attest that it works.
Here are the ones I purchased:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mossy-Oak-GameKeeper-4-tray-Electric-Dehydrator/552666446 (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mossy-Oak-GameKeeper-4-tray-Electric-Dehydrator/552666446)
Lastly, I also purchased some plastic bins that were 4 for $10, and where the standard spool fits perfectly in them, they are these ones here:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Sterilite-12-Qt-11-L-Storage-Boxes-Teal-Sachet-Set-of-4/142079510 (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Sterilite-12-Qt-11-L-Storage-Boxes-Teal-Sachet-Set-of-4/142079510)
Or, you could do this many and save money:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Sterilite-Set-4-12-Qt-Storage-Box-Teal-Sachet-Available-in-Sets-of-16-or-Set-of-4/55413816?athcpid=55413816&athpgid=athenaItemPage&athcgid=null&athznid=PWVUB&athieid=v0&athstid=CS020&athguid=466001f5-46cfa622-dfc118c19a18a716&athena=true (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Sterilite-Set-4-12-Qt-Storage-Box-Teal-Sachet-Available-in-Sets-of-16-or-Set-of-4/55413816?athcpid=55413816&athpgid=athenaItemPage&athcgid=null&athznid=PWVUB&athieid=v0&athstid=CS020&athguid=466001f5-46cfa622-dfc118c19a18a716&athena=true)
John
I see that a user has printed his own similar bed mounts for the CR10, the design is on Thingiverse.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2683800 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2683800)
Joe.
You should still check your overall bed level. Many times the glass itself is warped. If you join the CR-10 group on facebook many recommend either getting 12x12 glass from ikea or Home Depot to help with this. The ABL does a good job for minor fluctuations in the bed, but if your glass has a serious warp to it, you may still have some issues.
As one of the YouTube video loggers suggested, I bought a pack of mirrors, which tend to be perfectly flat. Since then I haven't had any issues with printing at all.
I used to have trouble with parts coming off the bed while printing, even when I used a glue stick. But then I saw an advert for a product called PrintBite plus, which is brilliant. It holds the part until the bed cools and then you can simply lift it off. You are right though Jason, getting the bed level is most important.
I use a glass Bed (Borosilicate) and PEI Sheet, Love it...