My first test knob done with the FDS kit,
The white line is backlightable, actually backlighted by the IBL's shaft hole. Superb in the dark
Very easy to make and all included (stripping kit and screws) at about $4 each.
Will redo all my overhead as they look 100% better than the old ones.
http://www.flightdecksolutions.com/prod_info.php?id=599
Click on the pic to see the recessed white line detail.
Fine sanding the knob and applying a white primer takes care of the white line and the adherence.
The rest is made with FDS Kit stripping accessories.
That one was a test, the rest will be even better! lol
I would clear it with a flat clear to act as a protective coating. I think i'm going this route myself, paint my own and save $$$. Thanks Jack.. Are you spray painting them? If so, what brand/color?
Rob
Experimenting so far
I will raid a hobby store and check their spray cans.
Pretty sure I can match the light grey-off white .
Clear coating is a good idea.
In any case these knobs are sharp and well engineered to start with.
JP
Plasti-kote do a satin lacquer, its perfect for this sort of application
Quote from: jackpilot on May 19, 2011, 06:19:37 PM
Experimenting so far
I will raid a hobby store and check their spray cans.
Pretty sure I can match the light grey-off white .
Jack - I think the colour is Testors #1730 Flat Gull Gray
David
Flat gull gray is fine.
I found it a tad too "almond" for the 73.
Tried and prefer AS-2 Light Gray from Tamiya in spray can.
Tried also satin clear . Looks good but as nothing is shiny on the MIP I use a flat clear coat.
All this is a matter of personal pref.
In any case this knob kit is inexpensive, easy as 1 2 3 , and allows crisp backlighting.
As you say it is subjective and what we think is right - is right :)
There is probably a tonal difference anyway as I had to use a Humbrol equivalent of the Testors number. I might see if I can try your recommendation later as in my enthusiasm to fit the knobs on the FDS MIP I forgot about making allowance for the backlighting. :-[
David
Note:
I used a white plastic primer first and actually two coats of grey.
My 2ยข: I found that the flat clear is better as it dulls the shiny black striping and integrates it better.
With the satin, the stipes are more glossy than the knob and stand out too much.
My own taste...my own taste..lol
Depending on what knob and it's usage you might consider automotive paint. The kind that is used to paint dashboards. Scott can comment directly but he used a paint type on the TQ that I built for him and on his own MIP that he originally designed. You would be hard pressed to scratch it, it was hard as a rock. If I remember right it was a bit costic so mask and spray booth were a must.
Those bits will get quite alot of ware so you might want to consider something harder than MM enamels or any other modeling paint.
Just a thought.
Don
I use PPG Deltron DIU interior paint. You can buy it at automotive paint supply stores that carry PPG. This is the same stuff any of your interior auto dash surfaces are likely painted with. Really hard and durable. Easy to apply. On plastic you first shoot a quick coat of Plastic Adhesion Promoter which auto paint stores sell in spray cans. Some colors are available in spray cans (ie - black, white, silver) but if you look at their color charts and bring in something to match they may have to mix a pint (I bought a Ford premixed color called Portland Grey and it matched my real Boeing panels perfectly) . Sprays easily on with an airbrush but yes, you need good ventilation as the stuff is nasty to your lungs. Obviously need to also where a respirator when applying. It drys to touch in 15 minutes. Flows on great and a couple coats can be applied in rapid succession. Hard as a rock within an hour and definity overnight. I actually beat on a piece of painted plastic with a hammer and none of the paint came off. Also hit is with a heat gun and did not peel or change hardness at all. My guess is that it could be used for applications like painting and engraving a TQ top cover whilte flat then after engraving thrown in the oven and bent around a form without damaging or effect the paint. This stuff is made to sit for years and years in the hot sun under the windshield of closed up cars....thats hot!. On metal parts or screws you first apply a coat of Etching primer and let dry an hour then spray the color coat. Again, paint WILL NOT chip off later even off screw heads. See your local auto paint guys....they will get you what you need. For my dollar and time I wouldn't use any other paint.
Hope that helps,
Scott