I would like to get some good sources to purchase String Potentiometers.
Also, what resistance value works best? and for which application? (eg. Throttle vs. Flaps)
Mike
http://unimeasure.com/ (http://unimeasure.com/)
This is what I used on my real TQ
LX-PA-4.7 (Flaps)
LX-PA-10 (for Throttle levers)
Thanks Scott. I'll check it out.
Mike
Quote from: XOrionFE on February 04, 2013, 11:23:01 AM
http://unimeasure.com/ (http://unimeasure.com/)
This is what I used on my real TQ
LX-PA-4.7 (Flaps)
LX-PA-10 (for Throttle levers)
Scott, did you use the standard 1kohm or did you go with a different value. What was the cost of those?
Gary
1K works fine with all modern interface cards out there. I used mine on Leo card, OC cards, and others with no issues.
Rob
Thanks Rob. Still not many guys using string pots so there isn't many posts or info about them with regards to our interface cards . Thanks again for the info
Gary
Quote from: Garys on February 04, 2013, 03:51:27 PM
Quote from: XOrionFE on February 04, 2013, 11:23:01 AM
http://unimeasure.com/ (http://unimeasure.com/)
This is what I used on my real TQ
LX-PA-4.7 (Flaps)
LX-PA-10 (for Throttle levers)
Scott, did you use the standard 1kohm or did you go with a different value. What was the cost of those?
Gary
Yes, the spec sheet says they are all 1k pots. They work really nice. Of course this could be done with rods and slide pots also but I chose string pots based on Rob's design of the TQ he converted for Nick.
Hey did you by chance see the youtube video where the guy took a cheap keycard retractable (or car keys retractable) and made string pots from them. It was really cheap and worked great!
He is a member on CB. Here is the link:
http://www.cockpitbuilders.com/community/index.php?topic=2404.0 (http://www.cockpitbuilders.com/community/index.php?topic=2404.0)
John
That was a neat design for sure. As much as the design looks solid I cant help but wonder how it will survive over the long term. Doing as Rob and Scott have done and purchasing string pots specifically designed for the task looks like a better solution.
Gary
Gary, I think this is a bit like the switch debate, where some members prefer to use real switches that cost 10 times what a cheap switch costs. I imagine we would all like to use real components, or real string pots for that matter; but a design like this is brilliant if you simply can't afford the real thing.
Sure you my have to replace it sooner than the real one, but most of us are swapping stuff out on a regular basis anyway.
Just my 2c worth.... ;)
Absolutely. For those that can't afford it, it's the perfect solution. I'm looking for a reliable long term solution which these strings pots are specifically designed for. Unfortunately the downside to the design which john linked too is the cheap retractable parts from china. You may be lucky and get one that lasts years but you could also get one that lasts 5 minutes. That's not to say that the more expensive option won't be the same but the chances of not having to pull half the cockpit apart to replace them are far greater and for me worth the extra cost.
Gary
Certainly there is merit in what you say Gary and I understand perfectly the logic behind it, nobody wants to install potentially unstable components. But there are very few parts in my pit that i could not change in an hour or so... and the saving for me personally is worth the risk...
I feel the same about the parts some vendors charge for compatible components. One German company is charging 36 euros for a single locking toggle switch. I bought 10 of the same ones on ebay for $35. But that's leading to another topic... sorry about that 8)
Guys,
Just found a cheaper source for string pots. 40usd each.
And could even be cheaper for people who own a 3d printer.
Here is the link:
http://www.andymark.com/product-p/am-2674.htm (http://www.andymark.com/product-p/am-2674.htm)
The 3d files for the shell and internal are also there to donwload
Regards,
Michael