Ok, i think my approach with led isnt working. Too messy and not a stable solution.
I also think that my simworld panels have the structures of a real 737 panel. Small holes that aircraft bulbs should fit in.
If you look at my panel, i want to buy a copper board and solder bulbs so they fit inside these small holes.
My problems are:
These are small holes, do i dare drill to make them bigger if the bulbs not fit?!
What is the part number from Conrad? (Want the cheap ones and the warm white modern light instead of warm red)
Where can i buy copperboard, and what tool do i use so i can creat my plus and minus powerrails?
BINGO!
The cutout holes are perfect for the smallest led from the ledstrip!!!
I think simworld must use the same led!
I tested with only 2/9 holes and the result is amazing!
AND! If i get the 1mm copper pcb to work, i can separate the backlight to the panels like the real boeing!
Some say Simworld is hard to backlight, but if done correct, the results are awesome!!!
Okay, but can you show the side with the LEDs in the holes, I think it goes much interested.
May I suggest that you use a piece of black vinyl adhesive sheet to help distribute the light evenly across the back plate. What you do is cut a piece the same size and shape as the panel section in question, and then you only make holes in this black vinyl for the mounting screws. Then, you apply it to the very back of the plexi backplate.
Why Black? Because black will asborb some of the light from the leds, but it will spread that led light brigtness out across the plexi back plate, and thereby making the lettering look more evenly lit. If you use white vinyl it will do exactly the same as no vinyl and give you hot spots (where the lettering looks bright in some places, yet dim in others)...like you sometimes see in certain panels.
As for leds over incandescent bulbs, leds will be much cooler in temperature, but the bulbs will look warmer in color across the panel section, and you only really need a few bulbs...
John
Here is a video link for the real panel:
http://youtu.be/hLSRlKbOOKw (http://youtu.be/hLSRlKbOOKw)
The other thing you could try is sanding the back of the panel and taking that "gloss" of it. That will help with light spill as well.
Cool, i will definetly try to add some dark material to even out the bleeds.
I would like to try bulbs, but i dont think there are bulbs that small?
Quote from: gufau on April 17, 2016, 10:36:51 AM
Okay, but can you show the side with the LEDs in the holes, I think it goes much interested.
More pictures coming! :)
You can get warm white LED's, and don't forget, LED's will take a lot less power typically last longer, and won't heat up the panel as much.
That is the "warm white leds".
My new tactic is to remove the leds from the strip to have only leds in places for the holes, that way i can still use the strip and skip the copper board.
If this works, it will be a super-easy setup that gives awesome results. Will test to add the black cover aswell for even distribution.
Will test tonight, will post the updates.
Ok, you can get 'warmer' ones :P
LED's are available down to 2200k (incandescent is about 2400k)
See here: http://www.digikey.ca/product-search/en/optoelectronics/led-lighting-white/525606?FV=9403c3%2C9406a9%2C19380196%2C193801a0%2C193801a2%2Cfff40008%2Cfff80526&mnonly=0&newproducts=0&ColumnSort=0&page=1&stock=0&pbfree=0&rohs=0&k=&quantity=&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=25 (http://www.digikey.ca/product-search/en/optoelectronics/led-lighting-white/525606?FV=9403c3%2C9406a9%2C19380196%2C193801a0%2C193801a2%2Cfff40008%2Cfff80526&mnonly=0&newproducts=0&ColumnSort=0&page=1&stock=0&pbfree=0&rohs=0&k=&quantity=&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=25)
These are surface mount and might require a custom PCB though. I'm not sure if there are heatsinking requirements for them, you'd have to check the datasheet.
Anyway...they are there if you want to try.
Thanks.
I kind of like the "Whiter" backlight, noticed the new -800 have more white than Red/warm colors.
Even if not 100% accurate, i will prb use this backlight anyhow. =)
Quote from: kurt-olsson on April 17, 2016, 03:25:57 AM
Ok, i think my approach with led isnt working. Too messy and not a stable solution.
I also think that my simworld panels have the structures of a real 737 panel. Small holes that aircraft bulbs should fit in.
If you look at my panel, i want to buy a copper board and solder bulbs so they fit inside these small holes.
Hello, it's me again.
Are these "small holes were made by you or they were already on the panel?
I have Simworld panels (MIP) and I have not seen this kind of "small holes" ...
They are in my panels allready, this is my efis panel. Note the small LED inside one hole.
Havent checked the MCP yet, but if there arent any holes i will drill them myself. Its the only way to do correct backlight! :)
Ok, thanks and good job
I removed my mcp panel from Simworld and it does not contain the small holes. So i will just have to drill them myself.
Peter,
Most panels are made from acrylic, so be careful with drilling if that's what the Simworld panels are made of, because it's easy to split them.
Panels like this are usually made using laser cutters and CNC machines, which work at much higher speeds than a drill and normally using quite small cutters, which help to avoid splitting the acrylic. I believe most manufacturers use special lubrication fluids while cutting as well.
Best of luck...
Joe
Thanks for the "headsup".
i am really disappointed in this. The backlight is such pain when you dont have holes for this. The Original Boeing panels are made that way.
I don´t see that i have any other choise than try to drill small holes. =(
I really like the way Flight Deck Solutions have solved this problem. But they are not sold in Europe and the Tax is going to kill my wallet if ordering...
Peter
If your mcp front face is white acrylic sprayed grey with etched letters then you do not need to drill holes at the rear for backlighting, provided that there is sufficient space between the panel holding the mcp components and the front face. I include some photos showing how I backlit the Opencocpits mcp by using led strips stuck onto the pcb.
With regard to your encoders problem, I recall you raised this a while ago and thought that resoldering had solved it. I agree with previous posters that your wiring/soldering could be the problem here. Some suggestions
It is not a good idea to solder full length resistors onto pins and have them "floating", without heat shrink protection. It is better to cut the resistors to length and solder them together to a piece of veroboard with connectors for the wires to the mcp and controller. That way you can easily tidy and group the wiring neatly.
A good mechanical joint is the basis for a good solder joint, then apply the iron to the joint ensuring that both ends of the joint are being heated up before introducing the solder.
David
Hi David.
Yeah i thought i had solved it with the resolding but it was incorrect, as soon as i start to build up the MCP with all the cables i get the problem returned.
Now my main focus will be to use Interrupts with 0.1uf Capacitors and test with only 6 encoders to get them stable. I will try to setup really good cable-management for this with heatshrink and solid connections. I will also try with different enncoder and see if the problem only is with my CTS288 encoders.
As for the backligh, my problem is that i cant have any space between my metalplate with all the components and the frontpanel. They need to be attaced together.
There is no room in the back for my Ledstrip and it will be such a mess adding them there.
I want small holes in the panel and then thin coppar-pcbmaterial that drives the small leds in the holes.
That way i can isolate the backlight like the real boeing panels and get better lighting aswell.
Man! your PCB board looks so sweet! makes mine so unprofessional... =)
How did you do it? printed it yourself? CAD program?
Quote from: kurt-olsson on April 21, 2016, 02:50:21 AM
I really like the way Flight Deck Solutions have solved this problem. But they are not sold in Europe and the Tax is going to kill my wallet if ordering...
Hello,
There is Simparts.de in Europe that makes high quality panels exactly as you seek ...
http://www.simparts.de/en/faq.html?___from_store=de (http://www.simparts.de/en/faq.html?___from_store=de)
Those panels look sweet!!!
David is right!
I need one more panel for components so i can have the ledstrip infront.
As previous also said, it is not worth drilling and cutting in the nice panels. It was a designerror that made me go that way.
Now i start from scratch with an extra panel! Hehe
Jeses these two days i have put in 4h a night in my mcp.
But this is the most fun hobby ever. Hope to get the mcp done soon and ixeg-integrated so i can move on to my throttle and efis panels. :)
To be: mcp version 4.3
Start over again haha
Peter
If you go with led strips make sure that you get wide angle leds, These will give more even light distribution and avoid hotspots. If you want I will try to find the spec I used
David
Looking at how the simworld panel is done looks like most of it is clear acrylic, little tip, paint the back of the panel white, helps with internal reflection and will make quite the difference.
Peter, better you hear to Phil. He makes on of the best professional panels in this industry.
Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk
Quote from: phil744 on April 21, 2016, 05:57:22 PM
Looking at how the simworld panel is done looks like most of it is clear acrylic, little tip, paint the back of the panel white, helps with internal reflection and will make quite the difference.
Should i paint 100% of the back white? Even where the leds shoild be placed or should i keep holes there?
keep the holes clear. rest of it should be white. trick is, once you get light within the panel you want to keep it in there, no point having it shine out of the back.
Two ledstrips installed on the new backplate.
My extra backplate is of cardboard, pretty hard to get the leds to stick...
But i think the result in the end will be ok