Hi
Before throwing the Simworld panels in the garbage i will try a last attempt to backlight them.
I want to do the same approach as this guy:
http://youtu.be/pKAgqf1irr8 (http://youtu.be/pKAgqf1irr8)
Fast forward to 5:22 where he shows the backlight.
Does anyone know what kind of leds he uses?
And how do you create that rails on the coppar board he has behind the leds?
Hi Peter,
No idea what kind of LED's he's using, you would have to see if you can send him a message and ask him.
As far as the copper board goes, you can get it from an electronics hobby store, or probably online. Referred to as copper clad board
example:
http://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/mg-chemicals/512/473-1003-ND/559721 (http://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/mg-chemicals/512/473-1003-ND/559721)
Then you can just use a Dremmel tool to isolate the sections (or a cnc machine if you have access to one).
Thanks!
The ledstrip didnt work because the leds needs to be on the axact place to be able to light the panel, and i cant turn the ledstrip as i want. It is to messy so i will try a new approach with many customplaced leds instead.
Thanks very much for the link, will buy one and test!
What led strips are you using? wide angle? light output?
I am using warm white. These ones to be exact.
http://www.dx.com/p/decorative-flexible-48w-warm-white-600-smd-3528-led-light-strip-dc-12v-5m-112465#.V0sCccheCnM (http://www.dx.com/p/decorative-flexible-48w-warm-white-600-smd-3528-led-light-strip-dc-12v-5m-112465#.V0sCccheCnM)
With a 9v battery when testing the result.
Maybe the 9v isnt enough and the extra 3v will make a world difference, but i feel that the panel is reeeealy hard to light up. If the leds arent in the EXACT place of the opening in the metal panel it will only light up about 50%.
I want some solution where i replicate the real panel by drilling holes in the panel and inserting the leds 2-3 mm.
I am also open for using real bulbs but dont know where to start.
Hmm... I thought i was done, but the backlight turned out to be really hard to solve...
Peter
As I have suggested earlier, you need wide angle leds. Here are the ones I used
http://www.rapidonline.com/pdf/56-0456.pdf (http://www.rapidonline.com/pdf/56-0456.pdf)
They have a light intensity of 1000mcd each and a display angle of 120 degrees. If you have a smaller angle, you not get the needed spread of light, just hotspots. I assume the back face of your fascia panels has no paint. With my led strips (above) I found that they needed to be about 25mm away from the fascia panel. These strips can be separated into units of three leds, so I made a small powered "wander" lead to test the effectiveness and placement of the strips. It all worked out well, but you need 12 volts!
David
My problem now is that i cant get 25mm between my panels. In that case the components will block the lights.
My other main problem now is that i cant turn the ledstrip without creating a mess.
I am really tempted to drill a hole in the panel by 3mm and then insert a led lamp.... Kind of like in the real panels...
Why do you need to try and turn the led strip, just use multiple rows of strips at different angles if necessary and solder connecting power lines between them.
Peter
If you have only a small gap between the fascia panel and the panel holding the components then put a line of leds along the top, shining down into the gap between the two panels. I did my EFIS that way and it is fine.
Try making up a short length of strip and test this out
I cut the ledstrip and ended up with 10 pcs. I dont know how to solder them together in an easy manner. It will prob take 10hours to get all strips solderd together. :'(
Then I cannot help you further! :(
Peter, long time since we last spoke. Have you tried the 5V bulbs from Chicago Miniature?
You will need a Cooper pcb.
Cheers
Luis
Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk
Hi mate!
No, but i would really like to! :)
Do you have any link?
How do you connect the power to the pcb?
Is it two cables for each "sector" that you create?
I am not sure i understand how the pcb clad works.
Hi, www.onlinecomponents.com (http://www.onlinecomponents.com)
Chicago Miniature 6832, they have been acquired so a new name might pop up, they charge 74 USD for 100 pieces.
On Thursday I can PM you a picture from the OEM panels.
Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk
Cool thanks!
I think these are the same right?
http://www.mouser.com (http://www.mouser.com)
Search for part number: JKL Components 6832
They have been recommended in my other thread.
If i can get a good rail setup with 5v i think bulbs will be easier to mount than my previous ledstrip.
Still need to figure out how to create a nice railsystem for the lamps.
Will probably gona use around 20 lamps (0.06mA x 20 amps in total)
If i am not using anything else on my teensys 5v pin (connected to usb) i should be able to hook up 10-12 bulbs from that pin without no need for external power.
Since i have two teensys to split all the bulbs on i think i will be fine. Hope my led displaya dont draw too much current...
Here are two examples of a simple way to do it with bulbs
Copper board
You manage to create 2 circuits by removing the thin copper layer where needed.
For a better diffusing effect the bulbs must be placed offset of the lettering engrave NOT smack behind it. Bulbs have no polarity which makes it simpler.
:2cw:
http://www.cockpitbuilders.com/community/index.php?topic=3091.msg24078#msg24078 (http://www.cockpitbuilders.com/community/index.php?topic=3091.msg24078#msg24078)
http://www.cockpitbuilders.com/community/index.php?topic=1999.msg15292#msg15292 (http://www.cockpitbuilders.com/community/index.php?topic=1999.msg15292#msg15292)
Don't power you backlighting from the usb port, especially if using bulbs. That is too much current for it to safely handle. You might be able to get away with it if using LED's, but not with bulbs.
Use a separate power supply.
These bulbs draw 60mA, not 0.06mA. (60mA is 0.06A)
So 20 bulbs will draw 1.2 Amps. Much more than USB or Teensy can handle without relays etc.
Quote from: jackpilot on May 30, 2016, 04:01:45 AM
Here are two examples of a simple way to do it with bulbs
Copper board
You manage to create 2 circuits by removing the thin copper layer where needed.
For a better diffusing effect the bulbs must be placed offset of the lettering engrave NOT smack behind it. Bulbs have no polarity which makes it simpler.
:2cw:
http://www.cockpitbuilders.com/community/index.php?topic=3091.msg24078#msg24078 (http://www.cockpitbuilders.com/community/index.php?topic=3091.msg24078#msg24078)
http://www.cockpitbuilders.com/community/index.php?topic=1999.msg15292#msg15292 (http://www.cockpitbuilders.com/community/index.php?topic=1999.msg15292#msg15292)
My plan is to insert the bulbs in the panel like FDS does.
Do you think mine will fit if being 3x3mm wide and long?
Quote from: mickc on May 30, 2016, 05:27:43 AM
These bulbs draw 60mA, not 0.06mA. (60mA is 0.06A)
So 20 bulbs will draw 1.2 Amps. Much more than USB or Teensy can handle without relays etc.
Ooops! External power it is! :)
I stole Jacks idea!
Hope the bulbs will spread it more and also painting the backside white will add some more light. These test-leds are pointed spots so almost no wide-angle.