I took the approach of removing all unneccesary items in my OEM panels.
I want to remove as much as possible that i dont need.
Now my problem right now is that i cant unscrew the korry terminal screws because they are mounted 2 by 2 and the other is blocking the other one.
To be able to remove them i need to get them out of the panel.
I have to be total clear of how to remove them because i dont want to damage anything.
Then also, does anyone have a datasheet to the toggle switches?
Feels like alot of the cables is just backup and i would be ok with only use 1/4 connector?
Final question. All the screws are extremely tight, i guess its just to put some grease and let it sink in i guess?
Here is the toggle switch i have question about:
Korry, The front legend just pulls straight out, then inside in the center is a gold cup with a single allen head screw in it. Loosen that and the 2 halves will separate and allow it to be removed. Maybe i'll make a video?
Switches, all those switches have NC, NO, and C or COM clearly marked although sometimes very small. You only need 2 wires per sw or 3 if it is 3 position switch like APU start etc. Doesn't matter the whether Com to NC or NO as it can be set in software which state does what.
Tight screws, yes they are, turn harder, no lube needed ;)
Rob
Thanks mate!
Found this link aswell!
http://www.flaps2approach.com/journal/2015/3/25/oem-annunciators-replace-reproduction-korrys-in-main-instrum.html (http://www.flaps2approach.com/journal/2015/3/25/oem-annunciators-replace-reproduction-korrys-in-main-instrum.html)
But its always great to hear what you do Rob so i can do it the same way! :)
Thanks for the advice of cutting the panels, its really empty now and it will be great to fit the teensy inside!
Thanks for the switch answer, you had more info than the linked page.
I have a stupid question once again...
How do you identify the switch position when starting the sim without moving the switch? Do you use resistors? Or connect 5v so the current is high when the circuit is closed?
By the way, i understand why a single korry cost like 500$...
Total quality and amazing mechanics!
Is that new ;-) and did you wait 22 or 26 weeks lol
QuoteHow do you identify the switch position when starting the sim without moving the switch? Do you use resistors? Or connect 5v so the current is high when the circuit is closed?
You need to visit PRJC.com and start with the basics. Wire up a couple of switches and play around and discover and learn before you go any farther. From the comment above, it tells me you don't understand how the Teensy works with switches. I hate to see you destroy a Teensy.
Rob
Prob a good idea, question came out little wrong, the Teensy cant handle 5v as input or it go "poff" but i still have to read up on low high and the native stuff.
Will hook up one of the 3 pos switches and read up on the teensy. :)
Thanks
Quote from: kurt-olsson on September 13, 2016, 09:53:43 PM
Prob a good idea, question came out little wrong, the Teensy cant handle 5v as input or it go "poff" but i still have to read up on low high and the native stuff.
Will hook up one of the 3 pos switches and read up on the teensy. :)
Thanks
Actually the 3.1 and 3.2 are 5v tolerant on the inputs, The LC is not. The Teensy has internal pullup resistors which you must use by writing INPUT_PULLUP on all your sw input code. You will also need to use the bounce code as well. Once you get it figured out then it's just a matter of wiring it up and programming the code to do what you want.
Rob
Yeah, red today and it seems like the pullup-resistor will prevent the pin from floating and give a solid value. Hope to have something working tonight.
Thanks!