Hello Everyone,
As I will soon be starting on my overhead and there will be a plethora of wiring I'm wondering what everyone is using to identify their wires . I plan on bundling my wiring and therefore would like to identify each end of each wire in case there is a need for troubleshooting. These will be all 22 and 24 gauge, so quite small. Any ideas welcome.
First of all, wires color
You will need a few of them
I used FDS color coding (yellow red purple blue and black)
As far as I remember:
black for ground/neg
yellow for 12v
red for 5V
purple for inputs (switches)
white for outputs (annunciators)
Sysboard software identifies which contact on the card does what, so no need to identify physically each wire.
I also use small plastic tags for power connections from the PSUs.
(https://www.cockpitbuilders.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimagizer.imageshack.us%2Fv2%2F800x600q90%2F924%2F1JQEYC.jpg&hash=c38f3ee9c6a8c7db8df5df292a05fe127d70c426)
And again if you use FDS stuff with the latest connectors, they sell a wiring harness which allows simple plugging of everything.
Mine is the previous generation and is a rats nest. :P
Last thing always insert 2 or 3 spare wires of odd color (green or pink) in each bundle. Can be handy later.
I find it's more fun when you don't mark anything. Causes a lot of entertainment when your trying to fix something. Can even result in a complete rewire for those times when you get really angry and take the side cutters to everything.
Lol on the lighter side colour coding is a must. Better than labels that will most assuredly fall off when you don't want them to.
Trev
Jack, Trevor,
Thanks for your inputs. I definitely will be using color coded wiring. Most of the cards I will be using are Pokeys Ethernet as want to steer away from USB. I guess I can keep track of which port does what. I do have a pretty good spreadsheet from Ron in the Prosim Forum that can document each port used. Trevor.. lol.. I've been there before :) Re: sidecutters
Great picture Jack. That one's going in my overhead archive. Nice and neat. I have one of those coming in the mail. What size fuses are you using?
I partly followed the same color scheme (yellow/red/black/purple/white), however since I use Pokeys cards and DB25 cables I found that it is easier to use ready made flat colored wire sets to connect switches/annunciators to DB25 connectors.
Like this:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/btH9rR4IbkGJ1Pb5hd0QuoRtR8HxMABoTTWJrfkW9Zg1tmlPXD2dm-H5X3hOAQ2WO1Tw7x7pP42OnTW5V_ZDFDuv2zMEoTF2k4BYOhx9nff7kSwHVmcau3btYC1UZjqnW2IOhmTFcu0-1CirbkeCbrIOT_HgvD482CKLCQsgSQ9ibxXheyupmGaJfP3Ah4k1r8yUjHZz-8x2ewCPlwjozNtxG-orKQ3KXRLTmscnc68APvitx8zQvaFfEWqvSXSJCG6cf90eeMkDWYfvgeywmOmae9hjPvnKBg3o4o2nuoFGy0lUDflF8QqJLYEahaKKWBFLGqzSQkltOb8OhwfS4XiCL1xaZng7qzrmbal0Nh98mRomr9pmdUSxkO_OO9Ay8V-vQ_TcazmqHeQN1SXQ-l7As7wZP7uw2fbAw1nim9Ct97FVPqv-ViXRVOzf9lLV11R1blKKIKGMhaiujCwH--LBX3g5BvutLk9bQ4MrAB9_JYhC_Hlc-LYVkSDbG9alE0zYGk3aUw4Wv0WYP7QBKxbv4VNuBdWY92UnMHkvplu7kerJo1FbmBPqQ85dtj9DpL75fuPUXHsDhGszZ3YJLT0NydvdwYHMnK_26js=w800-h600-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/x9i_9-EKzIkHpHC_NvtGkC59sEGRsYfxu7lV9gxROKgZUDjbAqNQj-uqxWzQtTju5xV-zAdG7ifIF2rQQz3phYo4tcvBQjWxmlG0VCpi3ipuCEW9J7fft44SfMl-AM6rO551gS94DbGY0Ol06XTmb9c-ERRd3iiDsTbUyRGPsMWWSlLlAI_uVZ9NmScQbHFA7w0DmAdAWBqIY-wDSzHMa43nsRfTjn1oxz5FdGIx1Wj_-W3iCqDHWsUxTYBGQn1xgVsQ4xLVA6WaPZ5LLLGxMMX8-XUoePoLr_jDqWfwjS0JvS7hEXi091gQ2OqFehrlTlC7GW2wlVetBg-VTTku8SsHOgLVMX8X9WGvPMoF_S2aZ_mKdVjhfLcUolqnvZTDU-2E6G68zPmp4aPxb4KeKt56wr--9adAwzB791XxtDedjprZSe2VZ9k5pUbhE5liJ-Oig07VDoZctLgksXOgBahuTFIVF6ueSzXs1ZaIf_sWPcWJHI5mj1XKD4yruppLzCFsTcJWa5ZhHFssGNxhpkv4MVlyXNXDUSSifwlw5dfM-QyVn-uYHKcFUGIKX3hvXvrbutFr1CAxmhU8OsuHKhf9hVR5lC0LvHHJx4w=w1303-h977-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qbQoW6WcFXYCukF8WXd-VrEOqXK5v9s7XnwxAGqp_9cFxe9MhZ8fFhRaiN7tRQ06o1H3bST7m0elQK0-Tm6lwZkBTUaHTyRHfk_Z0yYbHDsqBhPPcRx9Ii8ZGnJmlu9U8yVURVrdzhvUfXdMJtmUgEhkqbOk2kHysCoxwoivoaj4lz3V-Rw37qmftGi_HGrcRLF9IMsgm9u1PsKacYzltGshC5T9yr_b96mZjiOid9nKZlPlTzdJ09-xdJRbvz8gzzyjGqbiumgLwGALi8KFpqhgYrks5J8uJZL0NB2nf01umfbZzsz5y9d2JqRNZIIqw0T7dfxOigsq2BwvNVd-bpi93B0HsvfoblMS1g5KV2_gN1QQ52yI2ndDwldxJ62YuUbcOWiG3bXHQfg-ibsHvcJFY4lj34nsPOiBUACfBbdCRnHEX-wQAUPZjpHsFx4_c2FzWt1I-_N3YPVAXKeD1t5ugT1BO3ko56m4R9MqeXx-PH-UQovCzXRJJAwxVP-fD3cDd6ieTn9DASqvxaTNd0TXXsC8mVneb8lnNl7Fr3jirUq3qhwjQUA4BTsVbzj4feQyzJihfjelPdqkNuKNtOplMKA21s1b4Hqvtvw=w1303-h977-no)
:2cw:
Nick
I have two of these "buses" in the OVH besides the relay card, one 12v one 5V.
Fuses are 1/2/5 watts depending
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/923/sOfosT.jpg)
Nick: Very neat way to do it.
Thanks Jack!
It looked scary in test mode:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2YxPuFjdhOIGDbgfrCbEA86AJOve9ri2AVvNf9qdtNA_duirLxJv14TRDBAEVdda4vBTifgjDYbNcHrtl7Ha-Zw4RNXZSMBrbvnrzozFTv0t0R5XmjHPgM69qjEvPUs9p2bsr_RwCHp3fPYSORI_VAhpy1tb1WUUAEw7dNpMBKzna5fZcMNtDf38EcAGcN3QVmsxdvyogJ7Md9ZO2dwgPnJHK3ZR3fw-7omgh48ebFofr_GJEqtHI1jM5gaezeGviUoZiKvuQqhIkV43KXR03sjBK-TXKnO3EHbhCFLVaPZQUfnf33OipQ4EXBjpXEzc16L9RWFDcL51nQBAn0n9yG-hFeNf_6mz_xJ0gz9-QXzAIcUDNT2GW_L8vnwJODsbpsZQo5BzN8Px7hpJaALqhYfqGtCcY9lXYjziJjLzlR3tOvplwmFtCDoJOVO3H2nu-imr1HrICA_kbroRWYArH-dKipaxoeQ2vrjVkT7Oxx5SgqxaajNk01NVBVzNacCTeaA0Lajfuc09nLb9oAONJIqKWxKmd4wBw6ham1TZ9-eZ-MSIv2zLTD5XWSKyN7nIWebAa-KjKywpf1nwAKFyfjtQ-sFpHygsBx4Gwrk=w1280-h960-no)
but just like this when ready: :idiot:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/IfKSLBrcVXikPPq6YSRCwh4IThjdzSOV7_VWcZCyetcR3km3hJmcPb8-MrLpWasbkRGs82W4hC5w99uLSyNJ9VTbo9q_z1F1ZUAt_KDU2obtpScGuGyQ1X997kTIgkfoG70VhOLNZsonVAG_NYlLmtlwmHFbgwYqldLFZIU6ABFUPMcnU0kyM-D9psONAt6nZaEt5qaYbuyK8Ugh-GvRyB2nx9XZ46u9ys_NR-zt7zYKxxhcxDUWo3iUm2E8qf5IB3u-vA2CPznMNfZotfYwVI4Vr0hgdwNdJ9nPv_igiXN1RXmMDDpY0JQjmz6YlyuGIR9hDocsiOBiBccS-bPCqDzhTsR8wPAwqWzKvBx9AXsPSi1pocder8psTvQyt6yHoKg-Mhsj9r6nYU_gBfW3cbfV4pU0PvM4ugbB0VR707c9cEYl6zVEOMO2owS6e_ezWrmrDwmN3OPPHcMqv3jMaBfpDSkswQu3Y410caw7YisMFJKthF9Ztu8cWzpjIjyNFPNw864ooFerq6ecCg8zMGT8FsyCP9J5FesT5Hu9R9bboeMUbjwc4DkUd1E4suzAu4mXuamorNWpbmaDPKDj0Qo3892QZqSZelZu1d4=w1399-h787-no)
Good info guys, appreciate it.
Excellent information. Thanks everyone.
Another technique that I use at work is heat shrink labels using a Dymo label writer. Makes it so easy to identify cables. But it can be time consuming.
https://buyheatshrink.com/dymo-label-writer/
there ya go :2cw:
Neat! ;)
I have a Rhino 6000 label maker and they make a heat shrink tubing label cartridge for it. Worked well on my CNC controller.
This is a nice tool for labeling wires.
Sam, yes that's a very nice label maker.. Those are the kinds that you can get the heat shrink for.. :)
Do you put in the actual heat shrink and print directly on that and is it one piece at a time or is it a roll, sort of like the label roll?
Where did you buy this Sam?
John
before you all get excited this is a very very expensive option .. my suggestion get wire printing machine
Quote from: bernard S on February 14, 2018, 07:18:08 AM
before you all get excited this is a very very expensive option .. my suggestion get wire printing machine
Yep. My 600 bucks is going into sim parts :)
How about $123 USD plus the tubing.
And it can be used for labeling everything else in the sim also.
Yep, I use the Dymo Rhino 4200. Super cheap and works great with the heatshrink tube cartridges.
Gary
Ahh.. I was looking at the 6000. I'll take a look at the 4200.
Quote from: Garys on February 14, 2018, 07:50:32 AM
Yep, I use the Dymo Rhino 4200. Super cheap and works great with the heatshrink tube cartridges.
Gary
Where did you get it Gary
US or CAN
CAN, I got mine from a local electronics store but amazon.ca should have them under $100.
Quote from: Garys on February 14, 2018, 09:37:27 AM
CAN, I got mine from a local electronics store but amazon.ca should have them under $100.
Hi Gary,
The 4200 does look affordable. A lot of my wiring is 22 and 24 gauge. I'm wondering if the shrink tube for this unit would work on small gauge wiring.
You can buy different size tubing. I have used down to 22 gauge with no problems.
Quote from: Ed on February 14, 2018, 03:01:24 PM
Hi Gary,
The 4200 does look affordable. A lot of my wiring is 22 and 24 gauge. I'm wondering if the shrink tube for this unit would work on small gauge wiring.
I use the 1/4 size heatshrink. On that size wire I don't heat shrink all the way as it would be too small for me too read, so leave it a little larger much like in Bernards picture above.
Jim, Gary, thanks for the tips on shrink tubing sizes. Good point about being able to read the markings :)
Quote from: bernard S on February 14, 2018, 07:18:08 AM
before you all get excited this is a very very expensive option .. my suggestion get wire printing machine
Bernard,
The Rhino 5200, 4200 and Rhino Pro 3000 are more affordable solutions and have the heat shrink tubing roll available also. I believe the 3000 has been discontinued.
Quote from: blueskydriver on February 14, 2018, 03:36:22 AM
Do you put in the actual heat shrink and print directly on that and is it one piece at a time or is it a roll, sort of like the label roll?
John
John,
Not sure about the label maker that Sam is using, but the Rhino heat shrink tubing does come in a roll (cartridge). With my model label maker, I use 1/4" and 3/8" shrink tubing.
Quote from: Ed on February 14, 2018, 03:01:24 PM
The 4200 does look affordable. A lot of my wiring is 22 and 24 gauge. I'm wondering if the shrink tube for this unit would work on small gauge wiring.
Ed,
if you look at the picture I added in one of my previous replies, the cables marked DIR-, DIR+, are 22 gauge and the heat shrink fits them quite well after heating.
I used the 1/4" heat shrink with those cables. I believe the tubing is a 3:1 shrink ratio.
Quote from: ifeliciano on February 15, 2018, 06:48:14 AM
Quote from: Ed on February 14, 2018, 03:01:24 PM
The 4200 does look affordable. A lot of my wiring is 22 and 24 gauge. I'm wondering if the shrink tube for this unit would work on small gauge wiring.
Ed,
if you look at the picture I added in one of my previous replies, the cables marked DIR-, DIR+, are 22 gauge and the heat shrink fits them quite well after heating.
I used the 1/4" heat shrink with those cables. I believe the tubing is a 3:1 shrink ratio.
Went back and had a look at that picture. That looks great!
Sorry for the delay John,
this label machine was given to me by a friend, don't know the cost but you can get almost the same one for about $107.00 at Grainger.
https://www.grainger.com/product/20XW96?cm_mmc=PPC:+MSN+PLA&s_kwcid=AL (https://www.grainger.com/product/20XW96?cm_mmc=PPC:+MSN+PLA&s_kwcid=AL)!2966!10!8973610596!1102900013525&ef_id=Wiq3pwAAALVJ4zWw:20180216113848:s
Hi All,
Well lady luck struck. As it happens my son had a 5200 that I can borrow. This brings me to part 2 of Marking wires :) What type of ID configurations do you all find the most user friendly? Do you stick to the aviation standard method as in the PDF below? I looked at this and it results in quite the long numbers. I'm looking for a more simpler way.
In our shop we have chosen to take the route of labeling the ends of wires with their destination, versus function.
For example, if we have a data acquisition module (e.g. Leo Bodner card), the label would be LB1-4 indicating that it goes to pin 4 on Leo Bodner card #1. Then the systems wiring diagrams can be referenced to gain further information.
If it is something simple like going to a power strip, it can just be labeled 12vdc without need for a terminal and pin number. After all, our sims are not production runs and the likelihood :2cw: of whole wiring harnesses being removed after construction are very low.
We believe in KISS - keep it simple "s"
Quote from: navymustang on February 19, 2018, 05:31:54 AM
In our shop we have chosen to take the route of labeling the ends of wires with their destination, versus function.
For example, if we have a data acquisition module (e.g. Leo Bodner card), the label would be LB1-4 indicating that it goes to pin 4 on Leo Bodner card #1. Then the systems wiring diagrams can be referenced to gain further information.
If it is something simple like going to a power strip, it can just be labeled 12vdc without need for a terminal and pin number. After all, our sims are not production runs and the likelihood :2cw: of whole wiring harnesses being removed after construction are very low.
We believe in KISS - keep it simple "s"
Great advice Jim. I like the idea. Thank you.
Hi Everyone,
Looking for a little help using the Rhino 5200 with 1/4 shrink tube. I can print vertically down the shrink tube 5 characters or numbers. I would like to add a couple more characters/numbers. Is this possible or is this a limitation.
Example: I can print PE1(space)1 ---> 5 characters/numbers
I would like to extend this to say... PE1(space)-12 ---> 7 characters or more.
I have Cable and 22-16 AWG Label on top line of Rhino window
xxs auto caps in the right mid section of Rhino window
Can anyone familiar with the Rhino offer some advice. There doesn't seem to be much for tutorials online and the User Manual is woefully light.