Removing Ipeco Seat Adjustment knobs

[fsaviator]

Does anyone know how to remove the adjustment knobs from Ipeco Seats?  The lumbar adjustment knob on my Capt seat and the thigh adjustment knob on my FO seat are broken (bought them that way).  Still useable but run the risk of cutting yourself on the sharp edges.

Anyway, I want to remove them, as well as the good ones to get measurements so I can print new ones when I get my 3D printer.  I can't see a spring pin, and I can't seem to just pull them off.  Anyone know the secret to getting them off?

Warren

[fsaviator]

Figured it out...  use vise grips to immobilize the nut, then turn the knob counter-clockwise to unscrew.

[bernard S]

oh you have done it  well done... normally there is a special tool for that !  In relation to your 3d printer do you think the resin it produces will be strong enough? and dont forget to print over size because I suspect you do not have a objet printer so it may need to be sanded smooth and just another thing when designing remember to draw  ina nurbs based program so you can get your .stl  file have fun with your new printer I know I do

[fsaviator]

Hi Bernard.

Yes, I got them off.  I didn't think about oversize.  I'll have to see how it goes I guess.

I would think that as long as I am using ABS filament, it should be strong enough.  Not sure what percentage of fill I will use though.  I'll also have to counter sink a nut into it so the threads don't strip.

For the most part though I wouldn't think it needs to be that strong.

Can't wait until I get the printer though.  it will be fun playing with it.  I figure instead of making my first print something generic, I might as well try this.  It took me 10 minutes to draw this up in Sketchup.  I'll run it through meshlab and netfabb and it will be ready to print in no time (famous last words)!

[Garys]

oh you have done it  well done... normally there is a special tool for that !

Yep.. its called a 9/16th spanner 

Gary

[bernard S]

@ Garry .. LMAO   

Warren   not telling you how to suck eggs but rest assured the program you are using is going to cause you so much grief.. We use Rhino3d (you can use the demo version ) and or CATIA depending on the project... The reasons why I suggest this is because Rhino 3d is a nurbs based program so what you see is what you get ( it has no holes).. the filler (the waxy stuff ) can be a night mare to remove high pressure water is best followed by hand dental tools.. becareful with solvents as they will eat your parts   

[fsaviator]

Bernard,

feel free to instruct me on the art of sucking eggs!  As I've mentioned, I haven't even received the printer yet.  I'm just going on what I've seen.  I'm always up to learning new software, I just don't want to get sucked down the rabbit hole of spending more time in the learning curve than on the (s)printing straight away

As I look to retiring in a few years I hope to spend more time with my CNC and 3D printer, making things as opposed to blowing them up, so I'm not opposed to trying Rhino out.

Watching a few guys' prints with the solidoodle though, the product really looks clean right off the platform.  It appears that the software that comes with my printer eliminates the need for a raft (I'll have to see how that works).  Obviously I'll still need to do sanging and/or an acetone bath to smooth the layering ridges.

Here's a video by Eric Williams, he's a Lear 45 builder, and he's printing an AML cap (a lot like the products I want to print), and he's using the Gen 2 (same as the one I bought, but with a slightly smaller surface): http://youtu.be/InRlbwGUwlo

[Buster99]

Hello Warren,

An option to increase strength if needed may be to print thin walls and then fill with epoxy resin (another option is to fill the resin with aluminum powder). A friend of mine has made plastic parts on the CNC router and found them to be unstable, the resin fill worked out fine by making the parts more massive and solid.

HTH,
Marc

[bernard S]

Warren,

cleaning parts  we use the Eden machines and spend more time cleaning than we do printing so what can I tell you about this nightmare. We also learnt the hard way re software..with Rhino you do not have to check and re check for holes... think if your design(s) as something which will hold water.

1. To remove this get a high pressure washer much like what you would use to wash the driveway with.. (make a cabinet over the sink) seems extreme at face value but it is the only thing that works otherwise you will be there for hours per part. Running water and a toothbrush do not work!

2. Get some dental tools and toothbrush for dentures  you will need these

3. An Ultra sonic cleaner and "DO NOT USE ACETONE"  it will eat your plastic

4. Over time your parts will collapse.... they will also collapse if you do not remove the wax filler with a day or two ... they are very  much subject to heat change...

have fun