737-800 Arduino X-Plane Build

[kurt-olsson]

Just because i cant get the two last knobs off, i cant convert this radio...

Any tips when a knob is stuck? (Yes i have removed the two screws) on the other knob they are broken...

[kurt-olsson]

Let me know if anyone has suceeded with removing this knob.

[blueskydriver]

Hi Peter,

Not sure about your knob, but I do have some radios like that in which I could look at and help figure it out...can you tell me if there is a hex head bolt/screw or pressure fit pin in the knob? If nether, the knob is likely held by the pressed on fit; it's just pressed onto the rod.

In RC engines it's the same concept with removing the prop thrust washer. Using heat along with a pulley puller of sorts, the washer is slowly removed. You can use the same method, but without the heat aspects. You would just use the puller and do it very slowly because I am not sure if the rod could take a lot of force pressure from the front side.

Look at the two pics attached and you'll get what I mean here. Notice the puller on the RC engine, it would not be as tough on the rod as the bigger pulley puller shown by itself. That's because the bigger one will put a lot more pressure on the rod. Also, the hook sides might not be able to get in behind the knob very well due to their size and potentially slip off breaking the rod.

You could buy these items or even make something yourself using threaded rod with some nuts and a couple pieces of strong wood or metal too make the hook sections. As long as it pushes inward on the radio knob rod and outward on the knob it will come off, but just make sure you don't over do it by pushing the rod out the backside of the entire assembly.

John

[kurt-olsson]

Thanks!

They are definently pushed tight to a rod, so i think a pusher can be a solution. Lots of work for a little knob the top ones came off really easy.

[kurt-olsson]

https://youtu.be/aFfVLYReE8o

[blueskydriver]

Yep, wood works fine and the video you linked shows that well; however, wood might not be strong enough depending on how the pulley, knob or etc is put on. If heat and a strong pressed is used it'll likely need that in reverse...heat and a strong puller device.

Before I purchased the RC one and the other larger pulley puller one (which can be used with 2 or 3 arms), I had one made at a local metal shop using threaded rod and an 1/16" (2mm) thick piece of flat steel. Basically, I just averaged the hole sizes by using the biggest prop washers and the smaller ones, as well as the crank shaft sizes, then they drilled out the holes and cut the slot prior to making the bends. From there the bends were made using a press or metal brake (bender), then they deburred and cleaned it...no paint applied because RC fuel is hard on painted metal, depending on the paint and metal used, so they left it clean, which still looks that way after all the years I've had it.

I know explaining something so simple might seem like over-kill, but it's surprising how many things you come across that a puller of this sort can be used for; countless times I got this thing out over using a hammer or a pair of vice-grips...lol! Plus, it saved my fingers and thumbs many of times from the dreaded dummy mistakes of hitting them instead of the item or part needing removed  .

Attached are a some pics with measurements shown...

John

[kurt-olsson]

Unfortunently the rod sticking put is the inner rod, so i need to push the one that is fit tight around the knob.

This makes it impossible, either trash the lightplate to get access to the screws or i can just throw this item in the trash and learn from the mistake of beliving that you can change OEM construction.

[727737Nut]

Let me know if anyone has suceeded with removing this knob.

I have removed several of these  no issues, there are 2 lock screws in each knob. 

[kurt-olsson]

Let me know if anyone has suceeded with removing this knob.

I have removed several of these  no issues, there are 2 lock screws in each knob.

Thats what i thought, first two lockscrews were superhard to loosen, the first one (on the other one) broke my custom gable-tool and the knob seems to be cemented on. Think this is because corosion or rust etc. Think this is from early 80:s.

[kurt-olsson]

Got one out st last by bending with extreme torque.
This stuff is not supposed to move! Hehe

Its just to stuck, i tried drill out the locking screws but no luck.

RIP comm radio...

[kurt-olsson]

Cool boeing stuff thats prob cost tons of money!

[kurt-olsson]

Finally free!
Lots of bearings that i maybe can use to not skew the wheels when the cable is tighten.

[kurt-olsson]

Yes!!! The Builder strikes back, episode II!!!

After my radiomess i was able to disassemble the steeringboxes pretty straightforward. The best part is that there were two bearings with plate that i can use!!! I pretty much have everything i need except the tube that will connect the column and pulleys.

Will copy Scotts design of the two metalstructures that goes aside the crosstube that i will attach the bearings to.

[kurt-olsson]

2 years later, first time i see it in its frame all panels at once.
Speachless...


I like to think of my 737ng like the first one that was build and now is old and dirty with oilspill but still a great machine.

[kurt-olsson]

Man, that forward overhead is heavy!!! I will loose weight just converting the panels and take everything thats not needed out.

Sitting in the cockpit with this weight over my head, hope it is secured haha

[737NGer]

Looking good!

Sent you a PM.

[kurt-olsson]

To quote Eminem. "Cleaning out my closets".

Three down one more to go.
Simarea will be a boxed room with depth of 2m and width of 2,5m.
Its gona be tight, will narrow the side windows angles and the real bulkhead will start direct behind the two ipecos.

Rob, Fred or Scott, whats your box dimensions. I think i have about the same area as Scott to work with. (Maybe a little bit smaller)

[XOrionFE]

That is way way smaller space than mine Peter.   The portion of my basement housing the sim is 3.7m x 6m. (12.5 ft x 20 ft).

The platform for the shell is approx 2.5m x 2.5m (8ft x 8ft).

Scott

[kurt-olsson]

Width is no problem but i might have to go a little further back and block the door to get 2,1m depth.

Well, time will tell how its gona work.

[kurt-olsson]

Prototyping yokes version 1.0

[kurt-olsson]

Will drill a hole in the green aluminum for mounting steel length for holding my bearings. Is it ok to drill with a drill for metal?

[Garys]

LOL... Well you definitely aint gonna use a spade bit... of course a metal bit is what you are going to use 

[kurt-olsson]

Haha Just needed to check!

Will startoff with attaching some wood then replace with steel once the prototype is finished.

[blueskydriver]

Hey Peter,

Will you be using a hand drill or drill press? If you don't need a perfect hole you can hand drill it, but for a nicer hole go with a drill press. Steel and Aluminum will drill differently of course, but the Aluminum could melt just enough for cracking to form later; especially, if the hole will be under high stress loads. So, just make sure the drill rpms are not too high.

I am no expert at drilling, but I have drilled holes in aircraft aluminum too be used in undesigned manners or for something the aircraft builder never intended...which is about everything...lol 

Keep the posts and pics coming, it's nice to see someone trying new or different things to solve sim building problems 

John

[kurt-olsson]

Thanks John!

This is why i made the post, to get experiences from people that allready tackled this problem.

I will use a handdrill because i dont own a press. I might go to a local shop to get this done but hey, i should be able to do this myself.

Low RPM and patience and measure thoroughly before starting.

Will update with pictures for sure, fun that people are interested in my project hehe.