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What have you done for your simulator today?

Started by blueskydriver, January 14, 2018, 04:01:20 am

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jskibo and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

mickc

Looks like its trying to mate with the ground cart  :laugh:  :laugh:

blueskydriver

Looks like fighters are making a comeback...Skibo -F16, Ray -F18 and who's next...okay not me, but I bet someone will hit the F14 soon....

John
| FSX | FDS-MIP OVRHD SYS CARDS FC1| PM | PMDG 737-700 | UTX | GEX | UT7 | ASE | REX2 | AES | TSR | IS | TOPCAT | AvilaSoft EFB | OC CARDS & OVRHD GAUGES| SIMKITS | SW 3D Lights | FS2CREW2010 | FSXPassengers | Flight1 AE | MATROX TH2GO-D | NTHUSIM | 3-Mits EW230Ust Proj |

bernard S

June 05, 2020, 10:09:36 am #902 Last Edit: June 05, 2020, 10:57:20 am by bernard S
i am considering a dcs p 47  .. early stages i want to blow xxxx up lol  anyone got plans  ?

bernard S


jskibo

Quote from: blueskydriver on June 05, 2020, 09:48:37 amLooks like fighters are making a comeback...Skibo -F16, Ray -F18 and who's next...okay not me, but I bet someone will hit the F14 soon....

John

I'm making faster progress on other stuff at the moment. 

Important to have enough stuff running to stay flying or interest falls away.

Most of the F16 stuff I have to grab from Europe so makes sense to buy a lot at a time and save on shipping.

I did manage to pick up a PFC Cirrus II Pro yoke from a very generous member here as well as a PFC dual ruccer setup form another member, so screwing around with air manager to get a light twin panel up and running while I work the other stuff.  Air Manger and a RPi or two looks like it will be very helpful. 

Wish my 3D printer worked well as there are some gauge bezels I want to print
Sim 1:  F16, running Falcon 4 BMS - In Build using a mix of real and repro parts + Pokeys cards
Sim 2:  Light Twin / Single with RusCool EFD1000, RSG GTN750 and FI guages

blueskydriver

June 05, 2020, 03:24:21 pm #905 Last Edit: June 05, 2020, 03:25:06 pm by blueskydriver Reason: Typo
What's up with your 3D printer John?
| FSX | FDS-MIP OVRHD SYS CARDS FC1| PM | PMDG 737-700 | UTX | GEX | UT7 | ASE | REX2 | AES | TSR | IS | TOPCAT | AvilaSoft EFB | OC CARDS & OVRHD GAUGES| SIMKITS | SW 3D Lights | FS2CREW2010 | FSXPassengers | Flight1 AE | MATROX TH2GO-D | NTHUSIM | 3-Mits EW230Ust Proj |

n4208t

Ditto.  What's up with your printer?  And hey, let me know which bezels you are looking for.  I have printed some extras and also got some extras when I bought the KA sub-panels from Trooping.

jskibo

Quote from: blueskydriver on June 05, 2020, 03:24:21 pmWhat's up with your 3D printer John?
Quote from: n4208t on June 05, 2020, 04:31:57 pmDitto.  What's up with your printer?  And hey, let me know which bezels you are looking for.  I have printed some extras and also got some extras when I bought the KA sub-panels from Trooping.

First few runs it printed about half and then had a ton of holes.  I aligned it again and then the nozzle clogged in the middle of a print.  Had plastic coming out the top.

I have cleaned it out while hot and replaced the nozzle 4 times, it just keeps doing the same thing.

I found these bezels on thingaverse Bezelsand thought they might look nice.  Was looking at the six pack plus the two VORs to start.
Sim 1:  F16, running Falcon 4 BMS - In Build using a mix of real and repro parts + Pokeys cards
Sim 2:  Light Twin / Single with RusCool EFD1000, RSG GTN750 and FI guages

ame

What is your printer model? Once they are going they generally keep going, but some models are more finicky than others.

If you want to build some instruments might I suggest my design here:
https://www.cockpitbuilders.com/index.php?topic=7836.msg56228#msg56228

The bezels look fabulous when printed in matt black PLA, but of course they can be printed in any colour and painted.

jskibo

Quote from: ame on June 05, 2020, 06:42:20 pmWhat is your printer model? Once they are going they generally keep going, but some models are more finicky than others.

If you want to build some instruments might I suggest my design here:
https://www.cockpitbuilders.com/index.php?topic=7836.msg56228#msg56228

The bezels look fabulous when printed in matt black PLA, but of course they can be printed in any colour and painted.

Its a Geeetech A30.

Interesting stuff you built.  Do you think the dual stepper could be used in a Dual RPM or Tach gauge for Twins?
Sim 1:  F16, running Falcon 4 BMS - In Build using a mix of real and repro parts + Pokeys cards
Sim 2:  Light Twin / Single with RusCool EFD1000, RSG GTN750 and FI guages

ame

Quote from: jskibo on June 05, 2020, 07:05:43 pmIts a Geeetech A30.

Interesting stuff you built.  Do you think the dual stepper could be used in a Dual RPM or Tach gauge for Twins?

I expect so. I was trying to come up with the simplest design I could. Basically the 3D-printed plate for the stepper motors can be modified so that the spindles appear at any location (assuming there is room for the bodies of the motors behind the plate). The twin needle design you see there has the spindles at the outside edge, but it could be redesigned so that they are just either side of centre, or top and bottom, or top and middle.

If there's a specific gauge you have in mind post a picture and I'll think about how I would do it. Or download the source and modify it yourself! It's open source.

I decided that the bulk of components for the gauge would be the same for any design (bezel, window, spacer, LED, nuts, bolts) and the stepper plate would be different if required. I also deliberately avoided specifying any drivers or software, leaving that as an exercise for the reader. :)

ame

About the Geeetech, what have you tried?

What filament are you using, and what temperature are you using for your hot end? I'm using PLA at 200 °C, with the plate at 60 °C.

Is your bed level, and is the Z zero position correctly set?

Once the hot end is up to temperature, with the Z axis up a few cm can you push the filament through by hand, or by the front-panel or software controls?

I didn't find anything bad about that printer model in the forums, but it does seem that people spend a lot of time on calibration, and under-extrusion seems to be a problem.

jskibo

Something like these, with a left and right needle that are on top of each other and center mounted. Should be the normal 3 1/8th sizing so would stepper fit?

382213A3-5D50-4B20-920A-6C9750FE2D80.jpeg
B1373940-5F4B-4C45-9E6E-0F8E00DFE42D.jpeg
Sim 1:  F16, running Falcon 4 BMS - In Build using a mix of real and repro parts + Pokeys cards
Sim 2:  Light Twin / Single with RusCool EFD1000, RSG GTN750 and FI guages

ame

Quote from: jskibo on June 05, 2020, 07:52:25 pmSomething like these, with a left and right needle that are on top of each other and center mounted. Should be the normal 3 1/8th sizing so would stepper fit?

382213A3-5D50-4B20-920A-6C9750FE2D80.jpeg
B1373940-5F4B-4C45-9E6E-0F8E00DFE42D.jpeg
Ah! Yes, the basic design can support a dual concentric stepper:
https://www.cockpitbuilders.com/index.php?topic=7836.msg56227#msg56227

I should have linked to the beginning of that thread. Read the whole thing for my design ideas.

n4208t

Hey John.  I do have some spare bezels and I will dig them up and throw them in that little box for Monday.  Are all the bezels you are looking for the 3 inch or are you looking for any of the 2 inch too?

And I agree with ame.  Your printer is fine, the devil is in the details to get it tuned, tightened, leveled, and make sure your slicer settings are good.  The more info you can provide (and pics of the problem) the easier it is for folks to help you get it going again.

jskibo

Quote from: n4208t on June 06, 2020, 02:30:25 amHey John.  I do have some spare bezels and I will dig them up and throw them in that little box for Monday.  Are all the bezels you are looking for the 3 inch or are you looking for any of the 2 inch too?

And I agree with ame.  Your printer is fine, the devil is in the details to get it tuned, tightened, leveled, and make sure your slicer settings are good.  The more info you can provide (and pics of the problem) the easier it is for folks to help you get it going again.

Thanks Steve.  I think just 3" at this point.

I will have to dig the printer out of the corner and dust it off.  Its been more than a year since I messed with it.  Had considered tossing it in the street at one point.

I had originally bought it to make the pieces for an MPCNC router MPCNC Router
Sim 1:  F16, running Falcon 4 BMS - In Build using a mix of real and repro parts + Pokeys cards
Sim 2:  Light Twin / Single with RusCool EFD1000, RSG GTN750 and FI guages

Trevor Hale

June 06, 2020, 05:52:16 am #916 Last Edit: June 06, 2020, 05:53:04 am by Trevor Hale
I ripped the guts out of my A30 and put in an MKS-Gen2 board and ran a calibration on all the steppers. The driver board voltage was way higher than it should have been.

Still get stringing but that's a matter of getting the temps right.

Printers are fun but can be a real pain in the ass.

If it has been a year since you printed your pla May be screwed unless you kept it in ziplock with silica.

Trev
Trevor Hale

Owner
http://www.cockpitbuilders.com

Director of Operations
Worldflight Team USA
http://www.worldflightusa.com

VATSIM:

n4208t

Trevor has nailed it.  They are wonderful machines that are a pain in the ass and need frequent upkeep and massage.  I found the spares and am printing you some of those Cessna 3 inchers.  I will shoot you some pics when done and throw them all in the accessories box for Monday.

It is hard to diagnose 3D printer problems without getting into specifics but we have all been there.  Looks like there are also multiple models of the A30 depending on how old it is.  You said you changed nozzles several times.  Did you clean out the hot end completely and make sure there was nothing left in it before putting the new nozzle in?  Also, when you put the new nozzle in, I always really tighten the heatbreak down (gently) with a wrench and then cold tighten the new nozzle up against the heatbreak and then back it off about 1/4 to 1/2 turn. THEN I heat up the nozzle and use the correct wrench or socket to tighten down and seat the nozzle firmly up against the heatbreak.

Depending on the type of hotend you have I have also had issues in the past (on my Tevo Tornado) with making sure that the Bowden tubing is seated correctly in the hotend.  This was an issue, in particular, with E3Dv6 clones where the spacing between the end of the bowden tube and the heatbreak was causing problems.

Anyway, keep at it.  You will get it going again and there are lots of folks here and on the various 3D print forums who can help.  BTW- the best YouTube video I found for cleaning a jammed Geetech A30 Nozzle and hotend was actually in German but it is so good that you can still follow it easily.  The only thing he did that I would not do was to end up drilling out the heatbreak.  If it were me and it were that plugged up, I would just replace the heatbreak because there is no way you can drill it and maintain whatever clearances were there.

MistyBlue

Quote from: bernard S on June 05, 2020, 11:46:05 amit can be done

Fantastic job Bernard.  The amount of work you put in to get that window down to clear glass is just insane but the results are spectacular.  Amazing how those thick those windows are.

ame

Quote from: n4208t on June 06, 2020, 09:05:43 amTrevor has nailed it.  They are wonderful machines that are a pain in the ass and need frequent upkeep and massage.  I found the spares and am printing you some of those Cessna 3 inchers.  I will shoot you some pics when done and throw them all in the accessories box for Monday.
I have a Malyan M200 which worked out of the box and has been going great for a long time. I recently (after 3 years) changed the Bowden tube and one end clamp, but overall I have been extremely happy with it.

For building flight simulator parts it can't be beat. You have to pay attention to the model you are using and make sure it is printed with the correct strength for its application. Also, a bit of post-processing can make the parts look really good.

I have also found it very useful for printing jigs. I can draw up and print a frame with holes in precise locations, which I can then use as a drilling jig for other parts. Much easier and more accurate than making a jig by hand.

n4208t

Great idea about the jigs.  I have been printing parts for my sim but never thought about using it in that way.  Thanks!

jskibo

I'll dig out my A30 in a couple weeks and play with it (in the middle of an MBA class that's kicking my ass).

I have new metal feeder upgrade for it as well as the auto leveler I need to figure out how to use. Bought them when I was trying to get it running.
Sim 1:  F16, running Falcon 4 BMS - In Build using a mix of real and repro parts + Pokeys cards
Sim 2:  Light Twin / Single with RusCool EFD1000, RSG GTN750 and FI guages

n4208t

I put a Bondtech (clone) extruder and an EzABL Pro auto leveling system on my Tornado last summer and love them both.

kattz


jskibo

Bought a C310 Panel Eyebrow.  Close enough to a Seneca V and $65
Sim 1:  F16, running Falcon 4 BMS - In Build using a mix of real and repro parts + Pokeys cards
Sim 2:  Light Twin / Single with RusCool EFD1000, RSG GTN750 and FI guages

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