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Creality CR-10S 3d printer.

Started by Mach7, February 27, 2019, 05:38:05 pm

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Mach7

I have found a solution that I would like to share for those of you who have 3D printers.

I have been doing a lot of printing lately and keep running into the same problems that everyone else has, and that is trying to get the object to stick to the building platform during the process.

I have tried glues, tapes and just about everything you can imagine. I have even tried running higher temps on the build plate and increased the brim width in an attempt to get a quality product...however one thing is certain...if you don't have good initial adherence then the construct will be flawed.

I have probably discarded more PLA then I care to mention...occasionally I get a good print, but mostly I end up stopping the print during the initial stages when I see the tell tale signs of a print going south....until now.

I usually place masking tape over my glass build plate, as this always seemed to be the  best option for me, however I noticed that...when it was time to take the tape off...the tape would not peel off easily and the tape I did take off would leave a sticky residue behind, which I would clean off prior to applying the fresh tape for the next build.

Last week, I removed the tape when the plate was still hot as opposed to my previous method of cleaning the pate when it was at room temperature. to my surprise, the tape came off easily but left the glue behind on the build plate.

I decided to try a build on the residue alone, and to my surprise I can now achieve perfect builds...however you have to drop the plate and the material in a sink full of water in order to separate the object from the glass.

Now....I place masking tape on the build plate, run the bed up to 90 degrees, whilst ensuring the tape is pressed firmly in place, then after 10 mins I remove the tape and begin my build.

Works every time!!!

Trevor Hale

Sounds to me Like a pain in the A$$.
Ensure your nozzle is leveled to the buildplate with a sheet of Paper. 

Get yourself a sheet of Borosilicate glass (3mm) and stick a sheet of PEI (1mm) on it (Comes with 3m 2 sided tape on the PEI) attach the borosilicate glass to your buildplate with binder clips.
(Hot plate stuff sticks) (Cool Plate stuff releases)
Good Luck Sir.
Trevor Hale

Owner
http://www.cockpitbuilders.com

Director of Operations
Worldflight Team USA
http://www.worldflightusa.com

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Mach7

Thanks Trevor,

That actually sounds like a better mousetrap for sure.

The downside to my method is trying to get the build project released from the plate....I usually have to soak the whole package in soapy water overnight in order for the hold to relax enough in order to remove the items without damage.

Trevor Hale

That sucks...  I can only imagine the painful waiting for that.
For me, its on to the next print within minutes..  Watch the youtube videos on PEI sheets and you will see.  It took me 3 prints to get it figured out, and the temperature right.  Printing with PLA its 210 on the nozzle and 63 on the bed.
Trev
Trevor Hale

Owner
http://www.cockpitbuilders.com

Director of Operations
Worldflight Team USA
http://www.worldflightusa.com

VATSIM:

IFLY3

what Trevor said,dialing in the bed is key,and remove the plate when removing objects.

sagrada737

Hi guys,

This is an interesting thread, as I have recently gotten into 3D printing.   I have two Creality CR-10S Pro printers.   I have spent about three months working out how best to utilize this technology to make viable parts for my 737 Sim.   In reality, there are limitations to 3D printing, however, it is a viable tool for many of our needs in building a flight simulator.

The most significant factor in 3D printing toward obtaining good print results, is understanding the limitations of the filament material one is using in relation to the part design desired to be printed.   This concerns itself mainly with dimensional stability and structural integrity.

The CR-10S Pro, like many of the low cost 3d printers uses FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling) technology.   This approach uses "layers" of filament material that gets extruded through a nozzle, to essentially "stack" layers of material to yield the design geometry required in the printed part.   In this regard, two critical factors are important to get right, or the print result will suffer.   These are:   1. Bed Adhesion, and 2.  Slicer Settings.

BED ADHESION is peculiar to the type of material being printed.   The most common filament material is PLA, which is fairly easy to print, and fairly easy to achieve good bed adhesion.   However, PLA is not the best choice for structure parts, as layer separation can be a factor, which may cause the part to break apart.   PLA is not the best choice for dimensional stability.   Things like Bezels for gauges can easily be made from PLA.   However, other filament materials that offer greater strength, may have other issues -- bed adhesion being one of them.   Nylon and ABS filament materials are an example of materials that have demanding bed adhesion issues. 

In my experimentation with 3D printing, I have found that a simple glass mirror plate works the best for PLA type of materials, including PLA-Carbon Fiber (CF) filaments.   For other filament materials, I have found that Kapton sheet or tape is excellent for bed adhesion, with a water based glue stick for PLA/PLA-CF and Nylon/Nylon-CF.  For ABS filament, using the Kapton tape and an acetone/ABS slurry makes for excellent bed adhesion.

SLICER SETTINGS are important as well to obtaining a good print result.   The Slicer is essentially the post-processor between the Solid Modeling CAD program (I use FreeCAD) and the 3D Printer.  The Slicer is where all the settings are made, which results in the GCode file that the 3D Printer can understand for printing the part.  The "magic" is done in the Slicer, and getting the setting correct for the type of material being printed.

Bottom line is...   Get the Bed Adhesion right, and the Slicer settings right, and you can achieve printing a good part.   Get either one of these screwed up and you will have nothing but problems getting good results from your 3D printer.  That said, the world of 3D printing opens up a whole new opportunity for the Sim Builder, with many opportunities for making various parts for our Sims.   

For example...   I used my 3d printers to make Projector Supports for my three Optoma GT1080HD projectors.   In this case, I used a PLA material.   I have used the PLA-Carbon Fiber material effectively to make Bezels and Cases for various assemblies, etc..  The filament material I am liking the most now, is PETG-Carbon Fiber.   It has good dimensional/strength qualities.  Where strength is required, Nylon-Carbon Fiber is a good choice.   However, each of these materials requires special consideration with respect to part design, bed adhesion, and Slicer settings.  Again...   Get all that right,and you get good parts.

Regards,
Mike
P3d v3.x with Sim-Avionics (two computers), FDS MIP, 3-Optoma HD GT180 projection display driven by a single nvidia GTX980.

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