Will Depart in...
Started by Kaellis991, September 26, 2020, 02:47:58 PM
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Quote from: blueskydriver on September 26, 2020, 05:34:44 PMWhere did you get the switch?
Quote from: ame on September 26, 2020, 06:27:29 PMOk. I see the image. It is a DPDT pushbutton switch, which can be latching or momentary. You should buzz the pins with a multimeter, but you'll probably find that you have two independent groups of three pins. The centre will be common (in each group) and the edges will be normally open (NO) and normally closed (NC).The switch is designed to be mounted on a through-hole PCB. You might find the pin pitch will fit perfboard or stripboard, which would make an ideal transition board from the switch pins to the wire. However, you could solder your wire directly to the pins if you like.
Quote from: Joe Lavery on September 27, 2020, 03:53:32 AMThe way to solder to these pins is firstly to have a very fine soldering iron tip. Then using the iron, coat the pin with a small blob of solder, let it run along the pin. Next twist the wire (assuming it's multi stranded) and hold the iron on the wire adding the solder (once it's hot enough) until it coats the wire. The trick is to have enough solder but not enough to bridge the pins.I use one of those multi arm holders to hold the switch, then offer the wire to the pin and just touch it until you see the solder melt. Remove the iron straight away, but hold the wire for a couple more seconds units the solder has hardened.After you've done the first couple you will develop your own method. When I first started I had similar problems, but now I can solder SMD (Suface Mount) devices with ease; even SMD chips.Best of luck (it's all a learning curve)One more thing I use heat shrink tubing on each pin, it makes sure they don't contact and strengthens the join.Joe.
Quote from: blueskydriver on September 27, 2020, 09:27:57 AMGet one of these:https://www.amazon.com/Aven-17100-150-Lead-Free-Solder/dp/B017LG2FUSUse it to dip the wire tips (called tinning them) into the heated solder, let it cool. Then, with solder iron, you touch the tinned wire to the pin(s) just long enough for it to stick, move iron away, let it cool and that's it.You can also tin pins for insertion into a PCB board, then you reheat with solder iron and it will adhere to the board.Also, mind the wattage of the solder iron, too high is not good; a 20w-40w switchable is best for wires, lower wattage for delicate circuitry.By the way, I do have one of these solder heating units myself....John
Quote from: Kaellis991 on September 27, 2020, 04:29:26 PMI would like to use mobiflight, but it requires programming that is beyond my capabilities.My goal is not to become a cockpit builder, I dont have the smarts for that but with some guidance I think I can get the SimvimCockpit to work.Automatically....that is what I am hoping for.
Quote from: Kaellis991 on September 27, 2020, 05:06:53 PMThanks for the SimVim hints. I have been reading through all of that for a couple of weeks. I understand the individual words, but when they are put together as they are on the website I get lost very easily. There is a lot of tech jargon that is written for those with an electronics background. Reading through those pages is indeed...to say the least...tedious. The reading and the understanding of those technical writings is many times mutually exclusive.On the programming side over the last 25 years I've tried to learn Basic, Autolisp, C++, Python, and most recently working on Dynamo. None of it has ever "clicked".
QuoteThe "CLK" input in this case should be connected to assigned controller pin (no need to use a pull-down resistor), other signal inputs (L,D) are the common for all output devices (pins #27,28).
Quote from: Kaellis991 on September 28, 2020, 12:33:27 AMThank you for that much more descriptive explanation. You've filled many of the holes left open in The Simvim write ups. I have all the test boards to start wiring up those buttons and your directions have certainly helped clear up a few things.
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