My 757 overhead progress (new pics added below)

[matta757]

Hi everyone,

Well I have yet to post any pictures from my sim project yet, but today is the day all that changes. It's been in the works since December; has gone through a few revamps in the design; but finally my 757 overhead panel is basically done.

I aimed to replicate most of the Korry switches (I ended up doing 40 of them... I think there is really like 45 but I had no more room on my BUO836X cards). I also replicated several working rotary switches including the engine starts, PAX signs, IRS, APU, A/C packs and the Battery switch; overhead lights switches; all the rest are simply dummies that I didn't do because my software doesn't have functions for those switches.

I don't have access or money to afford a CNC machine, so I simply used MFD boards painted the 757 brown and then had Kinkos run clear decals of all the writings... that was a tedious part to assemble.

It doesn't hold a match to some of the work I have seen on here, but I am pretty proud of what I have been able to do, I hope you enjoy it!


Matt

Overhead Not-Lighted


Lighted


http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb257/matta757/DSC_4439.jpg

[Kennair]

Hey Matt, once installed and flying you'll hardly notice the mdf panels.  Immersion through function is the key and I think you've achieved that, looks great.

Can I ask where you got your Korry's and knobs?

Ken.

[matta757]

Ken,

I bought my knobs from FDS. I purchased the clear, unfinished knobs and used their directions to paint and stripe them. I also ended up liking this option because while FDS uses an almond color for their knobs (and recommend using that for the clear ones) I decided that a lighter color better suited the pictures that I was referencing.

As for the Korrys, I made them myself using pushbutton OFF-ON switches, acrylic cubes and LED lights. You can find the tutorial I used at this link: http://home.hccnet.nl/jwopdenakker/building%20tip.html

I found that these work quite nicely. My LED's are powered by my BUO836X boards... unfortunately, because I am using PSS software these LED's do not respond to outputs from FS, but instead are powered only when I have the switch engaged. Thus, they also don't display the amber warnings for pressure, etc. I will snap a few pictures of the Korry's so you can get a better idea of how I assembled them.

Thanks for the reply!

Matt

[Kennair]

Ah yes I recall that tutorial.  Was thinking of doing similar but FDS's basic Korry's in kit form are only $10.  I doubt I could make them cheaper.  Did you find it more cost effective making your own?  Was also looking at those FDS clear knobs for my sim as they are very cost effective and allow your own color variance as you've described.

Ken.

[matta757]

Ken,

Yes, I found the Korry solution to be cost effective, more so than $10 per switch from FDS (as much as I would love to have used those). My switches broke down as follows:

$1 per acrylic cube
$2.09 per switch
$0.70 per LED

Actually, I ended up making a few runs of the Korry switches, so I probably would have been better off with the FDS switches! Well, maybe not, 40 of those would have cost me nearly $400, and I know I didn't spend that much even though I did several attempts!

I highly recommend the clear switches from FDS. I won't discuss the paint procedures here because they request that you don't share the procedure, but they are very user friendly and the outcome is incredible. They are also backlit ready.

Matt

[Kennair]

Hmm, I'll have to re-assess that option then.  The 777 has over 60 of the little buggers so your costing would result in a saving of around $300!  Lots more work of course but certainly doable.  I'd like to find a pushbutton with a little longer throw for greater authenticity though.

Thanks for the info Matt and happy flying.

Ken.

[shaneb]

Hey Matt,

Nice job on the overhead . . like those Korries!  Also, thanks for the info on FDS knobs. I was going to ask if anyone had used them as I was planning on buying the clear knobs and painting myself.     

[Trevor Hale]

Matt, I have to agree with what is being said here.  Your overhead looks great!  I am sure you are quite pleased.  Your making great progress.  Keep up the great work.

Trev

[jackpilot]

FDS knobs are top notch. I have a whole bag for my overhead (replacing the first generation of knobs)
They feel good, very sharp design, backlightable and super affordable!
Next project!!

[Bob Reed]

Ya Matt... Nothing to be ashamed of here that I can see.. Looks great!

[matta757]

Thanks guys, I appreciate the comments. It's been a lot of long and tedious work, but the finished product is worth it.

It also is nice to have others appreciate the work, so thanks for that!

Matt

[Efe]

Looks great Matt! I have to agree with Ken, Trevor, etc. about the insignificance of the medium used. As long as it looks like the real deal, it could be made of styrofoam for all that it matters (but please no one try this!). Looking forward to further posts about your pit.

[XOrionFE]

Awesome looking overhead Matt

I look forward to seeing more!

Regards,
Scott

[matta757]

More pics...

I had to use the flash, since now that it's hanging from the ceiling it gets hit by very little light (at least for a camera). I did some retouching to try to add some true color back to them, so if they look funny that's why!


This is the best shot I could get of the Korrys when they were on... it's hard when using a flash!

[Boeing Skunk Works]

Looks very good Matt. Color seems spot on to me.

[matta757]

I should mention, for those of you who are interested in using the tutorial for making Korrys, that I deviated in certain places to keep the costs down.

The tutorial calls for using Silk Screen Printing for making the legends... well I looked into it and decided that I was not willing to part with over $200 to make the legends. Instead, I took the PDF to Kinkos and had them print it on transparency using the color copier at its darkest toner setting. I found that the color copier has a deeper black than the black and white copier. I also had them print it as a mirror image, so that the ink is on the backside and isn't touched or rubbed off when pushing the button.

I had them run multiple copies. I then used Vellum adhesive on a roller to glue the transparency together. I found that one layer let too much light show through. Then I tried 2 sheets, but still too much light. Gluing 3 sheets together made the black dark enough that the light only shown through where it was suppose to. I have to say, this procedure took some time. Aligning the transparencies just right took some patience... I found it easiest to line then up, then adhere them together in the margin area to anchor the sheets where they needed to be and THEN added the adhesive on each black korry.

Once I had done this, I ran into another issue that wasn't dealt with in the tutorial. I cut out each Korry legend, making sure that the layers stayed aligned (sometimes the pressure of the scissors moved them slightly, so they needed to be tweak by hand to realign them... trial and error!). But when I went to glue them onto the cubes (which had already been spray painted black on all but the front) some light tended to show through along the edges. I got around this by taking a sponge brush and BARELY painting the 4 edges of the non-painted face of the cube with black paint. This allows the light to still shine through, but if you're careful enough it also prevents light from shining out the edges. Most of them turned out... some didn't but I only did one edge coat, I probably should have done more.

If you have any questions, you know what to do!

Matt

[Boeing Skunk Works]

If you ever have to cut any others, line them all up carefully and clamp them to the work bench top and start scoring them lightly with an Exacto-knife and a straight edge. It'll take several passes to penetrate all of the copies, but you'll get much better results than using scissors.

Using scissors on something as delicate as that is like using an axe to cut a 2"x4".

[matta757]

Haha yes I realized that after I finished cutting them. I actually tried the exacto, but I didn't try it using the clamp idea, so I will keep that in mind the next time!

Matt