Lear 45 build

[vcimmino]

Very nice Shane...! Your project is always more then a few steps ahead all the other learjet builders. Looks like one of those big covers on the pedestal needs something that I will make for you... Does the word "CDU" tell you anything? :-)

[shaneb]

Oh yeah  . . . needs a "da vinci" CDU for sure . . . and a FGC . . and EFIS  . . well the list goes on and on!    Once I get most of the "important" hardware in place I will start thinking about computers to run it all . . that will give time for your Global interface to come together.

[shaneb]

Hey Mike (BSW) or one of you other guys that have some knowledge of components,

I am needing a rotary switch  1/4in shaft  (off/on) no dimmer  to power on/off  my 5v lightplates do any of you have any suggestions for rotary switch's that you are using?

Thanks,

Shane

[Boeing Skunk Works]

Shane I couldn't find a rotary on/off (only) that would handle the current of my overhead lightplates. I finally just installed a 30 amp toggle with a long baton in place of the rotary. No more smoke. It's not Eaton, or Honeywell, but it looks the part.

I've alread smoked two rotary on/off switches thinking they could handle the current.

Mouser might have something I missed, but all I saw were rheostats that were sort of pricey, and you don't need the rheostat part of the switch.

[shaneb]

I've not found anything as well, but I wanted to check with you guys that have been building for a while . . you've already been down that road.   The rotary switches for 12v DC lighting were simple with the PWM rotary dimmers and fairly cheap, but the lightplates seem to be a different story.  Thanks for the feedback Mike. 



. . . think I may have figured out how to do this.  I am using a  AC/DC converter that is supplying 5v DC and this powers my lightplates with no problem.  Instead of placing a switch on the DC side I can place a switch on the AC side.  I have tried this tonight with a AC rotary dimmer switch just to see if it will work, it works as a switch no problem of course it did not dim which I don't want anyway . . I think now I just need to find an AC rotary switch without the dimmer that has a long enough shaft to fit thru the lightplate and I think this will work.  In essence all I am doing is turning the power converter on and off.

[shaneb]

I finally got in the mood to work on the yokes . . I started around 10:30 this morning cutting the material to make the metal brackets to support the yokes and pot.  I am using the same method that Scott (XOrion) is using for his 737.  It took me most of the day to weld up the two brackets, and do some test fitting to the cockpit interior . . . here is the results so far.  I still have quite a bit to do but I finally have the yokes very near completion.       . .  Thanks Scott for the info posted on the column/yoke mounts 





The columns/yokes are leaning further back than they should . . I  do not have the springs hooked up under the base that assists in returning the columns to a neutral position.

[XOrionFE]

Wow!  They look awesome Shane.  Did you switch to a steel pipe crossover tube?   Also...don't use springs underneath.  They are too noisy and don't feel right.  Instead, just get some bungie cord and cut off the hooks and loop it around the bottom bracket and through the eyelet twice then pull it taught and tie a square knot.  I think it feels much better and really don't even need the screen door dampers.

Looks great.
Scott

[shaneb]

Hey Scott,

Yep, I switched over to the steel pipe and like that much better and I don't know why I said springs . . we had talked about this before and I had decided to go with the bungee.  About all I have left to do is finish the bracket for the pot and "thread the needle"  I bet that is fun!  Any pointers when I get ready to attach the green cables . . I've looked over your photos, have the eye bolts like you have. Looks like I will cut a length for the co-pilot side and clamp  two of the eye bolts to each end of this length, then run a length from the pilot's side over to the co-pilot's side and repeat . .then  thread eye bolts into the threaded sleeve to tighten. . . and of course have the collars with set screw on the pulley/both sides.

[XOrionFE]

That's about all there is too it. Attach to turnbuckles and tighten.  Let me know how it goes.

Scott

[shaneb]

Hey guys,

I've accomplished a little progress on my build.  In the last couple of weeks I was able to add some finishing details to the rudder pedals and get them mounted into the shell and added the cross linkage to link them together.  I've also finished reworking a SELCAL panel out of an MD80 so that it looks like it belongs in a Lear.  The MD80 SELCAL panel is black so I had to paint it grey and fill in some holes that are not present on the Lear panel.  Additionally I upgraded the gear freefall handle to a design by Ron Rollo . . now it looks like the real part in the Lear.

[Bob Reed]

Your Lear is looking stunning! What a build!

[shaneb]

Thanks Bob,

Looking forward to seeing more of your KA build as well!  I bet you are too.   I really enjoy building but also really looking forward to the first time I can sit down in the flightdeck and actually take it for a spin . . well maybe not a spin . . you know what I mean!

[XOrionFE]

Looking fantastic Shane!  I love the way the columns turned out and your pedestal is coming together very nicely.   Hopefully by the time you finish up the interior Jason will have a nice FMC function ready to go for your avionics.  Then you will have the best Lear simulator in the world!!  I will have to show off pictures of it to the Lear 45 pilot I know.

Scott

[shaneb]

Hey Scott,

Thanks,  yeah I like the feel of the yokes/columns . . really want to be able to hook up a computer and the pots to make sure everything works as expected before putting all interior components in . . but that will come in time.

[shaneb]

I recently received the Honeywell toggle switches needed to finish out the panels for the lower MIP.  I've also added the Korry replicas to the panel as well as the Landing gear handle (Korry replicas/ landing gear handle made by Ron Rollo) The lightplate is from a real Lear 45. 



I also recently completed the FGC panel.  I took this idea from Scott (XOrionFE) when he was working on a L45.  This will serve as a temporary panel until Vince completes his FGC design.  This panel is not backlit and not 100% correct in appearance as the real panel. The knobs were made by Vince.

[Bob Reed]

Wow Shane, Looks fantastic! I hope my KA looks half as good!

[XOrionFE]

looks awesome Shane!!

Man, I hope I can get down to fly that bad boy with you someday when it is done!

Scott

[shaneb]

Hey Scott,

Same here,   I want to check out the 37! 

[shaneb]

I've worked on the control column covers the last few days and completed them this afternoon . . one more step closer to being able to move parts into the shell

[Bob Reed]

Looking great Shane.. Where did you get those yokes.. They would work in my KA!!

[shaneb]

Hey Bob,

I sent you a PM. 

[RojanTrojan]

Stunning work Shane.

Regards

Rhydian

[XOrionFE]

Wow Shane...they came out great.  Looks very close to the real thing.   They are going to look fantastic in front of your mip!

Scott

[shaneb]

Hey guys,

Thanks for the comments. 

Hey Scott,

I had to design my own since the pvc elbow would not work with my yokes due to their shape, but all in all they were not difficult to make.  I used some cardboard and foam to work out the shape I wanted,  shaved the foam to the desired shape, covered the foam with aluminum foil, then covered with two layers of fiberglass.  A little bondo and some sanding and priming and a couple coats of Rust-Oleum Aged Iron textured paint, followed by a couple coats of satin black and a couple coats of clear finished out the project.

[MLeavy737]

Looks great shane and thanks for the building tip!

Mike Leavy