737-800 Arduino X-Plane Build

[bernard S]

okay    CMM Conponent Maintence Manuel...  IPC   illustrated Parts Catalog...IPL..Illustrated  Parts List ... and lastly WDM Wiring Diagram Manuel ..in future i will expand on such terms    ..You can purchase these directly from component manufacturer..but bevwarned they are expensive and they are control documents so be prepared to jump through many many hoops to access them höpe this helps .. OEM parts can be troublesime without these documents

[kurt-olsson]

Fmc face completely disassembled. Will do some cleaning of all parts before assemblying. Lots of springs were damaged and the caps were missing in places so this unit was doomed from start to work 100%.

The OEM switch has about 5mm spring and a tacticle click when pressing it. I will replace them with tacticle switches, the length of the "momentum" of the button will be shortend but the click is the same. Much like the FDS plugnplay units.

The backlight is a pieace of art (or really not due to how complex it is)
Small holders in glass that projects light and the backlight that is painted black to absorb the light and amplify it where the buttons are.

Next up will be to test some other switches then drill a pcb board where my new switches will fit in the original pinholes.

[kurt-olsson]

Now, thats what i am talking about!
Not 28v like spec but 24v will do!

Sooo cool to see the authentic light!

[kurt-olsson]

New panels arrived from ebay.
Not good condition, but dirt cheap.

Let me know if anyone has a spare korry caps!

[kurt-olsson]

One more important piece of the puzzle is solved!

Such a cool item!

Thanks to GLB!

[kurt-olsson]

New panel!
Best shape i have seen. Cortesey of Canada!

Now, where do i find nice white caps?

[mickc]

You can get the real ones from various OEM parts places, Boeing part number is 69-44578-2.

I got mine through Aerobase, cost around $3.50 each 2 years ago.

They have the correct bubble at the end and are easy to fit. 
Look just like the real thing because they are!

[Ridgenj]

Hi, Aerobase quoted me  14.50 USD each. If someone finds it cheaper I am also interested in getting 40 pieces.

Cheers
Luis

[mickc]

Luis was that a quote for one single one or did you get a quote for multiple items?

If you order more units the price becomes much cheaper.  My price was for a order of 80 units.

[Ridgenj]

Thanks Mickc, I quoted 30 pieces. Will try with 80 units and report back. Peter, I could order even more and will ship it to Gothia


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[kurt-olsson]

Thanks mickc and Luis for the info. I will collect my three oem panels that is left for this project before i buy other stuff, but it is good to know where i might find them and partno.

Bu the way, mickc: it looks like from some photos that you probably have the most awesome 737ng sim on the planet. Do you have any videos of it?

[Ridgenj]

Mickc or Willows, do you have by chance the p/n for the white caps needed for the Honeywell interlocking switches.

Cheers
Luis

[mickc]

Bu the way, mickc: it looks like from some photos that you probably have the most awesome 737ng sim on the planet. Do you have any videos of it?

Lol, im sure there are better ones out there mate, mine is a product if a severe case of OCD and as WilloW calls it "Scope Creep"
No videos of it yet, im still building some sections before they all get put together.  There are a few videos of bits and pieces of it on Youtube/Facebook though.

Mickc or Willows, do you have by chance the p/n for the white caps needed for the Honeywell interlocking switches.

Cheers
Luis

Yes sir.
Honeywell part number is 15PA90-6W
These are easier to find/buy as you can get them through normal electronic distributors like Mouser, Digikey etc.   

I got mine from Online Components, and with the qty discount for buying 30 of them they were a little under $12 each.   
That price looks to be a bit under $15 now ( i got mine in late 2013)

https://www.onlinecomponents.com/honeywell-15pa906w.html?p=11913873

Other places a quoting up to $44 each!

I used Online Components for all my Honeywell switches, caps and some guards too.

Remember to heat the old ones up before you try and take them off!!

[kurt-olsson]

Hm... wonder how i can get rid of that upper "gap" between upper panel and the frame. Is this only covered in the -800 frame?

And also, how on earth should i bend back the two support structures at the back?

[kurt-olsson]

Haha i see now there is a hole left! I can move the panels one more step! Hehe

[Ridgenj]

Yes sir.
Honeywell part number is 15PA90-6W
These are easier to find/buy as you can get them through normal electronic distributors like Mouser, Digikey
[/quote]

Many thanks Mickc!
Cheers
Luis

[kurt-olsson]

More OEM stuff.
The plan is to print master caution and fire  on the push-buttons.

[jackpilot]

Hm... wonder how i can get rid of that upper "gap" between upper panel and the frame. Is this only covered in the -800 frame?
And also, how on earth should i bend back the two support structures at the back?

[ebay]263083560119[/ebay]

Saw them off

[mickc]

More OEM stuff.
The plan is to print master caution and fire  on the push-buttons.

Any plans on getting the Fire & M/C Lights to work as switches ?

[kurt-olsson]

More OEM stuff.
The plan is to print master caution and fire  on the push-buttons.

Any plans on getting the Fire & M/C Lights to work as switches ?

Yes. These are push switches. So they have a circuit for it. The problem i might end up with is that the light needs 24v and if i push them, that circuit is the same as the light so i am afraid i might burn my teensy controller (max 5v).

But i am sure this could be solved with some kind of resistor etc...

[kurt-olsson]

[ebay]263083560119[/ebay]

Saw them off

Not a bad idea at all!

[mickc]

Yes. These are push switches. So they have a circuit for it. The problem i might end up with is that the light needs 24v and if i push them, that circuit is the same as the light so i am afraid i might burn my teensy controller (max 5v).

But i am sure this could be solved with some kind of resistor etc...

The ones you show in your pic are the standard annunciators, they have the push to test function that grounds the bulb to illuminate.
Normally terminal 1 (centre) is connected to 28v,
Terminal 2 is switched ground (to trigger the light)
and terminal 3 is constant ground for the self test.

The actual fire & MC ones have 2 separate microswitches attached to the back of them.

You can still do it with the ones you have but you will have to use an I/O card that accepts up to 28v and do away with the push to test.  The Phidgets 0/16/16 worked when I tried it, but as you say, you will need to interface it differently if you use Teensy.

[kurt-olsson]

True true, i will also see if i can mount a seperate switch behind it that gets pushed by the rod itself. That way i still can use teensy and get the real feel of the oem push. I think i will try this approach first.

[kurt-olsson]

By the way, if anyone knows how to open these buttons to change labels i would be in great thanks.

[mickc]

By the way, if anyone knows how to open these buttons to change labels i would be in great thanks.

Pull off the cap and use a fine blade or screwdriver between the outer case and the square back plate and you can lever the plate out. 
Start on one of the sides that have the indents on them.

There will be a steel spring, glass diffuser and then the lens.  Careful popping it out, as they stick the the body and are easy to break.

When you reassemble, you may need to slightly compress the sides of the cap before putting it back together to give it some tension, when you open them up it slightly stretches the sides.